I also had the same issues as most others on this post, with 7-1/2 degrees of down elevator needed to trim the plane level at 2/3 throttle with a Zenoah G26 and CG at 5-1/2 inches. Using the stab as "zero" (there is no datum) I found the bottom wing was at +1/2 degree and the top at + 1-1/2 degrees. Changing the top wing to + 1/2 helped some but not enough. I ended up modifying the wing saddle to get the bottom wing to -1/2 and set the top at zero. Now the plane is much better but far from perfect. I still need about 3 degrees of down elevator and in a power off vertical dive it moderately pulls out. My next change will be to try moving the top wing to - 1/2 degree. This is about all I can get and will include drilling new holes in the cabane struts as otherwise the front holes would miss (below) the hard points in the fuse.

Modifying the wing saddle was not as hard as I thought once I figured out how. With the airplane inverted on my bench I first placed a piece of single ply (not corregated) cardboard inside of the saddle and had a helper draw a line on the cardboard following the saddle profile. I cut along the line to create a saddle-shaped template. I put the template against the inside of the saddle dropped down 0.20 inches at the rear and zero inches at the front while my helper drew a line along the template edge against the inside of the saddle on both sides. Next I used a hacksaw laid across both saddles to cut narrow vertical curfs into both saddles, simultaneously, down to these lines, switching sides frequently to judge the depth of cut when nearing the lines. I cut multiple curfs spaced about 3/4" apart along the entire length of both saddles. I purchased a 2" diameter by 1-1/2" wide drum sander at Ace hardware and chucked it into a drill that has a horizontal level built in. I used this setup to evenly remove saddle material down to the bottoms of all the curfs and to smoothe the shape from curf to curf. This is not hard because the material being removed is mostly balsa and one piece of light ply on edge. I used the template again to cut 5/8" wide pieces of MonoKote to finish the saddle edges and keep the side covering secure (Balsarite helps here to secure the MonoKote and oil-proof the saddle wood). The hacksaw was also used to cut the trailing ends of the saddle into the corners where the drum sander radius is too big. A dremmel tool helped here too.

This provided a 3/4 degree change in incidence. Such modifications should never have to be made if an ARF is well designed and well built. However, the Stearman is such a nice looking plane I felt it was worth the effort to make it fly as well as it looks.