I have a yellow zero, and I have first-hand experience with the yellow-supplied spinner for this kit. I'm not going to tell you about the best way to cut it, because I never figured that out. The cone is so thick that a grinding stone will overheat and disintegrate before you make any progress and snips will not even scratch it. I tried all kinds of methods but the only method that afforded results was using a reinforced cut-off wheel. Of course, that leaves you with a series of straight, rough-cuts. I finishing the shape of the cut-outs using a series of metal files (flat, half-round and rat-tail). It was all very labor intensive. However you choose to proceed, BE SURE to take your time and be extra careful!

The reason to be careful: As you may have noticed, the yellow zero spinner is by design very heavy, which is good because this plane needs so much nose-weight (depending on the motor, of course... I'm using a G-38). But because the spinner is so heavy, if you are not extremely accurate with your cut-outs, and your drilling and tapping, this thing will shake your plane apart and significantly shorten the life of your motor. Be extra careful that it's dynamically balanced before you fire up that motor! Be sure it is very well balanced. Can't stress that enough.

My ultimate solution, and perhaps an alternative for you, is to get a Zero spinner from Gene Barton in Missouri (www.genebarton.com). He made some of the originals units for the Bert Baker Zero, which is the design on which the Yellow Zero is patterened. So, Gene's Zero spinner is accurate and matches the scale of the Yellow airframe perfectly. You can get a great spinner, accurately cut (just tell him the prop size), drilled, tapped, mounted and bead blasted (so it's ready for paint) for ~$80.

Good luck.

By the way, I have two Yellow Zero spinners on my shelf. If you (or anyone else) want to take a stab at trying to get them balanced, PM me and we'll work out a deal.

Noah