RE: Drilling holes for robart hinges.
a couple of the things on Robart hinge points that I do .
what I do, is drill the control surface holes,rudder, aileron,etc...I happen to use a cordless drill daily for work, so I don't use a jig for this just freehand,trying to be as carefull as possable.
then with a small phillips screwdriver I open up the hole just a bit, the hinges you will notice are slightly flaired at the end near the pivot.
insert the hinges in the surface and align it onto the wing,or whatever area I am doing, I then mark the tip of the hinge and the center of the knuckle(the pivoting area)lightly with a pencil so I have a reference to see if the hinges are perfectly strait or not.
then I drill the holes using my center line and the reference marks so even if the hinge is a little off from perfect it won't bind on me,again using the screwdriver to open the entry point just a little bit so the knuckle sits close to the pivoting point between the surfaces.
most of the models I build are scale WWII types so I recess the hinge into the control surface, and make channels,top and bottom so the surface rotates on a axis rather than swings(a nice feature of Robart hinges).
when its time for glueing,I make sure the hinges are swinging perfectly and no adjusting is needed,then using some 30 min epoxy I will usually glue them into the wing or area where the knuckle sits more on the surface.
before I actually glue them up I will use a small ammount of 3in1 oil at the knuckle so if any adhesive gets on it it will prevent the glue from locking it up,getting these things out is a real chore if you glue it in and it doesn't move.
when the first side is done and the glue is set up,I mount the control surface and test to see if I have a nice smooth operation when I am satisfied its ready then I glue it onto the surface.
I will often use 6min epoxy to glue in the control surface,I do this for 2 reasons the glue sets fast so when I push the surface on the hinge it stays where I put it,after just a small amount of holding it in position, and with the longer 30 min glue, it can get a bit drippy and has a tendancy to get all over the place,including where I don't want it like the pivot point,you have to do it with the shorter adhesive with confidence and not fool around with it since it sets up quickly but it works well.
a couple of examples hinging my ailerons on a Focke Wolf 190A8, and the flaps using the same hinge just for a different application.
for the flaps I used 30 min epoxy with micro balloons to attach the hinges to the surface.