I tend to look at this situation pragmatically: You already bought the floats-you might a well try to make them work.

They are on the plane in a reasonable approximation of a correct installation. At least, the big end is in front. And they are on a nice, forgiving trainer. The step is placed according to the guidelines, and the balance is on the little dot.

At this point, If it were MY plane I would plop it in the water and see if it works.

Since the nose of the floats is a little short, the prop might get some spray. Always Use a plastic prop for water flying. Taxi and start your takeoff run with full UP elevator to help the prop clear the spray. Taxi around a little to get the feel of it before you try to take off. If the noses of the floats try to submarine when you add power, that's a problem that can be fixed by relocating the floats forward.

You have noticed by now that it is easiest to taxi into the wind. Someday I will write a chapter about this, but there's more to it than just adding bigger water rudders. Full-UP elevator and about 4 clicks of power help make the rudder effective so you can taxi crosswind.

Point it into the wind and try a takeoff:Assuming the floats don't try to dive, as you add power to go faster, the plane will rock back, nose up, as the floats climb over their bow wave, then it will rock forward and be planing on the step.

As soon as the plane pops up on step (shouldn't be more than 2 seconds) relax the elevator and be ready to steer with the rudder (GENTLY). If the plane wants to change direction on its own, double-check the alignment of the floats. If you're taking off in frort of you, you should see that the rear end of the floats is above the water and the plane will sit much like if it was on a table-top. Hold just the slightest breath of back pressure on the elevator and the plane will lift off when it hits flying speed. Don't horse back on the stick and cause the rear of the floats to touch the water.

Landing: Just like a pavement landing: Into the wind, keep the wings level. Crosswind landings are shorter because of the big SPLASH as the plane trips over the float and cartwheels. Fortunately on water you can ALWAYS land into the wind.

Start off by trying the full-stall type of landing you use on pavement. Unlike a hard-surface landing, there is no shadow, except on the vegetation as you come over the bank. That's a good way to know you have cleared the bank and it's OK to drop below the tree-line. On glassy water, watch for the reflection of the plane. When your floats touch the reflection of the floats, you just landed. On ripply water, it's a little harder to judge altitude. If there are white-caps, you should not have taken off and you should look around for a grassy field to land on.
After you get the hang of it, make the landings a little hotter like a "wheel" landing in a taildragger. Set it down very gently on the water and it will be the smoothest landing you ever saw.