JS , I have only used the Great Planes/Top Flight clear coat brand , it seems to work for me the best without yellowing .

Steve , thanks for the explanation , I know its probably normal but being a wood kit guy , then going to H9 arfs ect , it was a wierd thing for me . As you stated it seems flimsy , especially when on the ground and your holding onto your plane with a screaming 180 -4 stroke , I dont want to be worried that I am grabbing onto a flimsy part of the fuse if its just aft of the wing , and that has been the case with the P40 and the Hellcat( Both CMP).

I know its about weight but Flightsking seems to fix this with less weight then adding a hollowed out bulkhead .
On the CMP P40 , the front fuse was so weak -that if you turn the plane over on a flight stand , you will get indentations when trying to start the plane , the lower fuse near the engine is the same way , virtaully hollow . Now I am all about saving weight but not at the cost of safety , I cant belive that some of these planes have not had the engines rip them apart .
I fixed the problems in two methods , 1)the lighest method is flightsking , 2) the strongest method is useing a simple contour gauge , putting it against the fuse where you need the strength , and making a very light weight ply former for that area .
In Pa I fly typically in early morning or 6 pm , so I am not in the hottest sun , but I have flown at 1:00 pm , not really having problems with my CMP glass work but i also dont let it sit for 2 hours in the sun . I dont see anyone , not even the top warbirds guys let there planes sit unless there on display at a meet .