Note quotation marks.

"Hello,

I don't mind going into detail about my rings and appreciate the questions and concerns. The .004 per inch of bore is nonsense. Cast iron is one of the least expanding or contracting metal there is. That is why it makes great engine and machinery blocks. So if it doesn't expand as much when heated as other metals, minimal gap is needed. And this info along with clearance info is available in machinist Hand books which will show .001 to .0015 ring end gap per 1" of bore, not .004. Evenwhen I was rebuilding Chevy small block 327 CI engines with 4" bore ring gap was to be .004 to .006 with cast iron rings. All large gaps do is waste much needed power in small engines. My ring OD is to cylinder bore so when you get them ungapped they won't fit. Just use a fine 4" to 6" smooth cut file, old ignition point file, emery paper to gap gently squeezing ring sides pulling paper or pushing file from center of ring out, never going toward inside. I don't get upset when someone wants to set their own gaps, I look at it as you want to get the most out of your engines. One other note about cylinder wear is the bottom & top of liner is usually tighter. So if you have a small brake cylinder hone with smooth or fine stones use it at the bottom of the liner to open bore slightly & a few times through liner to get better ring seat. While you're at it tape down 320 grit emery paper to a counter top, flat surface etc. Invert liner on paper & while holding down with one hand gently pull it across paper. Rotate 90 degrees and repeat until liner top is flat . You would be surprised how many liner tops aren't flat and leak. I don't want leaks to be blamed on my rings not giving good compression."

Bill