wow did I start some flaim bait There is more than one right way to do something and everything has its pro's and con's. I appreciate all the advice. I think I need work on my technique for making the shear webbing true enough to not have gaps. A trip to menards for some tools, either parts to make or store bought.

So far as the building board flattness goes I did check it with a long metal ruller on edge. There was a gap in the middle of the ruler that a micrometer would have difficulty measuring. Just enough to let the table length ruler move across the builing board a little more easily than at the outside edges where the ruler was firmly touching the board. I don't know if this is too much or not. I build on homasote (avail menards, etc) which is afixed to 3/4 ply by double sided tape (sig recomendation in their instruction books. I have too old office desks, one wood one metal that are about as flat as you could hope for, one wood table thats not (bows in the middle, I use the ply to make it straight), and the a makeshift table out of hip height shelves (also with the 3/4 ply setup). It seems like all the homasote buiding boards have that imperseptable "sag" in the middle. Not perfectly flat but very close to it. Without building on metal with magnets or on glass, I don't know how I'd get any flatter. That said I'm open to suggestions[8D].

The shearing explenation was great. Can I make this work when the spars are not perfectly parallel to oneanother? The top spar follows the counture of the rib so it is at a slight angle compared to the bottom spar. Does it matter if the shear webbing has a slight bow to it? How about grain direction? Again, I probably just need some more practice, but I am a "keep it simple" kinda guy. Thanks again. Is info on shear webs like this in the beginers forum? It might help some other folks too.