ORIGINAL: MattVid
More on the fly wheel stuff, possibly.
spoonrc had a post on page 736 of this thread that you should check out, he has his whole set up listed out with links to each of the parts. I would take his advice over mine at this point, I am still a relative noobie. I will try to take some pictures and stuff once I get my engine back together if you like.
Here is the direct link to his post, I hope this works ... [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1505231/mpage_736/key_/tm.htm#[/link]
Post #18395
He has it with the TZ engine, I have the CV-R, I would assume it would fit on the G3.0, but I am not 100% sure. I am not really sure how the clutch bell/shoes work to be honest, need to do some research on that ... unless someone can enlighten me here
(you guys are awesome).
And nice Keith, that is a helluva deal on that TZ. I am too scared to purchase that beast ... yet. Need to understand this stuff a little better before I start hopping up everything. Though, it will all happen in due time
Hey mate! You will enjoy this hobby very well if you haven't before!
Ok with that flywheel I am not 100% sure if the HPI collet will fit. I am sure it will though. I have my flywheel secured to a drive washer which is this
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXARS5&P=7. I reckon they are 10X better then a collet as it grabs into the flywheel. I haven't had mine slip where is when I was using a collet with the old fly wheel it slipped.
I recommend keeping the CV-R. The TZ is fun but way too much power. I have fixed my diffs twice. Well I am fixing the second atm. You will do around 55mph with good gearing but at around 3/4 of throttle you will just loose control on dirt/grass.
Heres a video
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=SMV7l9...e=channel_page I made a month or so ago. I can't get more then 3/4 on this grass. I have new wheels on back order and aluminum diff cups on the way.
Just installed my Traxxas Revo pipe, with some modding. Yet to drill the stinger out to 6mm (from 5mm to 6mm you think there isn't much gain but it is, a whoping 13.5% gain in hp!) Ill do some testing tomorrow or thurdsay with this pipe. I have heard good things though!
Oh yes and the clutch shoes etc. Well, you have the drive shaft that will use a collet or drive washer that grabs onto your flywheel. Your flywheel will always want to be at the RPM the cranckshaft is. Then you have clutch shoes on your flywheel, they work on enersha, the shoes at higher rpm are pushed outwards from the flywheel and grab onto the inside of the clutchbell. Therefore spinning the clutchbell. At idle your clutch shoes dont have enough rpm to engage the clutch bell, higher the rpm the more they will grab! (hope you could understand) I am hopless with gearing though. Best clutch shoes are aluminum too, or racing ones that are lighter and have more grab at lower rpm for acceleration. The ones I use are very quick and adjustable.
Good luck! (its a dear hobby too, I just spent $1000 on my savage!)
(pic is messy, was taking with my iPhone 3G)