Carlos:

At the risk of spending a bunch of your money, but simplifying the construction problems (hey, isnt that what engineering is all about?)...

All things considered, it might just be easier to spend the bucks on a set of air up/spring down pneumatic retracts, either Spring Air's or Robart's. It'd be simple to put a cheap micro server inside the fuselage to run the air valve, and there's only one piece of tubing that runs from the valve to each retract, which does away with all the problems of routing pushrods, cutting the root rib, and burying a retract servo in the wing.

There's enough room in the fuselage to mount a small air bottle, and you could use either 3/16 wire struts, or spend even more and get a set of robo-struts (VQ's got some that are about 1/2 the price of the Robarts). If you're flying off a concrete strip (you lucky man [sm=lol.gif]), you can probably get away with 1.75 or 2 inch diameter wheels, which should help with the wheel well problem.

I agree that you'll have to tilt the gear blocks foward to help get the gear in front of the CG (you can't tell from the pictures, but the retracts on the US are tilted about 15*). But I wouldn't cut into either the LE or the spar on the Tiger2; I think you'd risk weakening the wing structure. At MinnFlyer's recommendation, I moved the retracts out one rib bay from where the plans showed them. Since you've built from scratch, this is probably obvious, but don't forget to add plywood doublers to the ribs where you'll mount the retracts.

My Tiger landed just fine without the flaps. I found that I needed to keep approach speeds up just a touch more than with a semi-symetrical winged trainer, otherwise the controls got very "mushy" at stall speeds. This is not a good thing five feet off the ground if you need to abort a landing! My Tiger was a great airplane; I still rue the day my ground crew forgot to extend the antenna on my transmitter.

Keep us informed of progress. And whatever you do, don't even think about gear doors!

Fred