Thanks for the link Andrew. I will give that a try. The group has been very helpful and I am certainly learning a lot here. I have plenty of ventilation so I really am not worried about fumes.

I’m just looking for an easy way to get a nice finish. I am quickly finding that there is no easy way. There are however ways that will allow certain things to be done. Since I really would like to use a realistic paint scheme without the hard lines plastic gives, some kind of fiberglass or cloth covering and paint is the only way to go. It will probably come down to what will work successfully for me. I have done the silk/dope thing. It was not for me.

Tried the fiberglass and epoxy 1:1 at first then the 1:1:1 with alcohol to thin it. Was better. I will try the Koverall and poly and see where the chips fall.

During my early research though, the on the Sig site I find this about the poly.

“brush-on surfacing resin for sealing balsa and creating a glass-smooth durable base for epoxy or enamel paint.
It has a thinner viscosity than regular Sig Glass Resin for maximum penetration into the wood.
· Simply brush Finishing Resin onto the bare balsa.
· Before the resin cures, squeegee off any excess resin with a plastic epoxy spreader or ordinary stiff playing card.
· Wipe off any runs or drips with a paper towel.

Finishing Resin also works great for fuel-proofing engine compartments. Because of its thin viscosity, Finishing Resin is not recommended for molding fiberglass parts - use Sig Polyester Glass Resin instead. Finishing Resin must be chemically activated with "hardener" in order to cure. It absolutely will not dry unless hardener is added! Because the amount of hardener required can vary slightly depending on the curing time desired, we feel it is a better value to buy the resin and hardener separately.”
This reads like you do not need any fabric at all. But I am still looking, and I have never used it, so I will head the experience of those that have and try it that way first.