Cajun - The Nitro is the same as being sold by AK-Models. I used the supplied pushrods for the rudder and elevator, since 2-56 would not fit in the pushrod tubes. Usually I get rid of supplied wires, but since the pushrod tubes are already glued in, I'm taking the gamble. I don't see any flexing, so I think they will work out. But I did replace all wire for the retracts with 4-40 rod. Testing the pull-pull on the nosewheel seems to work fine. Yes, once the nosewheel is retracted, they will dangle since there is no tension on the wires. After cycling them many times. I have had no snagging. You can see how loose the pull-pull wires are in one of the last pictures I took - notice that it has no effect on the rudder. Take your time before you clamp the brass collor down on them, make sure everything is tight, but that you still have some room for adjustment on the clevis. The only bad thing was the nosegear collasping. That's the one reason I'm going to change the retracts out to Hobbicos. This will also eleminate the pull-pull system and just leave me a single rod. I seriously thought about putting my Mangum .80 (I still working out some problems on it) on the front, but for a light as the plane is, I decided to use my .65 4S first. I'm going with about 4 3/4" (121MM) for the CG, but might move it forward later. This is what H9 recommended, as CMP is historically a little off on their CGs (I experianced that with my CMP .50 Zero). I will have to rebalance once I install the new retracts. I will also be changing the mains from the 2.25 to 2.50 wheels.

Claw- I agree with Stallwart - come down and teach us!! Was your T-34 the H9 or CMP? Stallwart and I fly together and we both need the help