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Old 02-22-2009 | 11:49 AM
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SCALECRAFT
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From: MONTEBELLO, CA
Default RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD


ORIGINAL: LDM

just wonering , before we get into 6587 post lol if anyone could list 1 thru 20 , the best dos and donts they think you need to perform on this plane to make it an enjoyable model for all of us who take the small yellow bus to RC school [X(].
From servos , engine choice , wing set up , push rod set up , you know like "cliff notes"
We walked through miles of snow to get to RC school, no bus for us................................................ ..... sorry.

Heres what has flown well for me so far.

For GLOW engine models that have to deal with vibration and fuel. And keeping costs down. Not taking into consideration scale deviations.

1) OS 108 with 15x8 prop. Why 108. Did not want to have a large left torque problem and ground strikes with a larger prop. Flys well with a 108. And I had one lying around.
servos are a mix of MGG995 for the elevator and ailerons, throttle and other servos are JR547, and the Spektrum servos from the DX7 radio. All digital. 6Volt flight pack,2200ma.
Retracts are spring airs on the wing that is used in the video i put on youtube. You have seen my other wing, that configuration will prevent all my problems on the ground.
Again, hardware I had lying around. Use thread lock on engine bolts.


2)CMP engine mounts are not advised. Use some aluminum plates to mount your engine to the ply. Pics here somewhere. spread the load. Seal engine area.

3)Spinner backplate is a fragmentation grenade, or a time bomb with no timer. Get an aluminum backplate. Or a Platt spinner, or a Flightskin spinner.

4)Mount throttle servo behind the firewall. It doesn't need the heat or fuel exposure.

5)Open the back of the chin scoop for air flow. See pics

6)All servo mounts in fuse, put doublers for the servo screws to get a better bite. CMP ply is not hard 5 ply. snappa may have had a servo pull out of this ply.

7)The elevator connection should be made more precise and secure. I used a very secure configuration in my linkage. Maybe over kill, but will not fail. Pics somewhere on this post.

8) CMP Hinge points are good quality. I used them. Make sure you glue them in right.

9)Shim the retract for as much forward rake as reasonable. It will help in the nose over problem from the incorrect position of the CMP factory position, which is too far back. Hint, retracted position of the scale gear are swept back not forward as in the CMP gear mounts.

10) I don't use epoxy to glue to polyester. Ca has worked, but poly to poly is best. sand and wipe poly surface.

11)Use caution grabbing the wing, CMP uses very light balsa for sheeting, and the wing is not fully sheeted like their Zero.

12) Use fuel tubing for clevis holds, the black "O" rings CMP gives crack.

13) The "airbrakes" (wing radiator top flaps) are for show, use them when you think the model is safely on the ground. Mine are taped in place at this point to allow the inboard flap to operate with out deploying the upper ones.

14) Set CG inverted and with your retracts retracted and empty, with a slight nose down attitude. The CMP factory CG distance strangely worked.

Thats all I can think of right now. Now get off the bus and start building it.

This list has brought mine back safely so far.

Good luck

Steve