ORIGINAL: doxilia
I think it is generally hard to build super light airframes using classic construction methods - especially in the scaled down versions. The smaller the model, the more careful one has to be. Using foam cores should help if built light although doing a built up flat stab is also a good option at the scale you're building. Still, its possible that an airfoiled foam core stab might weigh less than a built up flat one at considerably higher strength.
Building a straight foam core wing that thin is not easy, and while it may be more resilient to puncture damage, I wouldn't call it "stronger." I think the
average builder would be more successful with a built-up tail. A full airfoil back there is neat but at these Reynolds numbers totally unnecessary. Round the LE, taper the TE (and that's as much for decreasing sensitivity around neutral as it is for drag).
My D10 will likely be in the 40 oz range AUW, heavy by today's standards for a 40" model. However, the Deception is a wide wing model and the D10 has over 300 sq in of area which brings the model in with an acceptable wing loading.
Over 19 is acceptable? When we worked it here, we figured 17 would be the upper limit for something we'd want to land. I was very glad that both of mine came in under 15.
Avoid the wing fillets,
Bite your tongue! That's like putting wheel pants on!
possibly use 1/16" fuse sides laminated with 1/32" ply full length and drill out the sides at will to lighten. Likewise on the fuse top, bottom and solid control surfaces (elevator and ailerons). I think if built like that, you could easily bring in a Pico airframe in the sub one pound weight ballpark for an AUW of ~36 oz (if your gear is weighing ~20 oz)
You're thinking old school, David. 3/32" sheet from the firewall back, no ply for electric but
maybe 1/32" from the wing forward if nitro. 3 formers (firewall, at LE, at TE), 3/16" longerons at the top and bottom of fuse. 1/16" sheet for fuse top/bottom from the wing aft.
I hope to send you an e-mail at lunch.
Andy