I am starting to think rather than starting a new thread im gona do another engine conversion side by side with what I already have for comparison to see if my results are the same between the two and I can get a direct comparison that way.

Here is the info on the leakdown testor.

Here is a bunch of stuff I already had on hand with the exception of one brass nipple, one pressure gauge and one air coupler.



I took and machined a aluminum slug that would lightly press into the pipe nipple that goes between the gauges. it has a .040 hole in the center and it is .500 inches long. this is What makes this tester work and if we all post results on here from one of these testors it needs to have this same dia and lenght orfice or it will be different results.



I used the vice to press it into the end of the brass nipple and the tapped it a little further into the nipple





It wa s all put together and here is the final result. the hose that screws onto the plug hole is off of a automotive compresion tester I already had and this makes it ieasy to use. the schrader valve has to be removed from the end as the valve will not let the air travel in the direction we need. It just happened to have the quickchange type of end tha matched one that was cheap at harbor frieght.



I left the schrader valve in the hose and pressured it up and as you can see my gauges are pretty even as this is crucial also that they be even.



Ok again the .040 orfice didnt have the resolution i wanted so i diassembled the orfice tube and pushed the slug to the end of the tube. i then drilled it out and tapped it to recieve the .023 welding tip. it was then shoved back down into the tube and reassembled





Ok now with it puged in and hooked to the cylinder the prop was held at tdc and you can see i am getting 76 psi after the orfice with an input pressure of 80 psi. without the orfice the pressure will be equal to the input pressure gauge as there will be no restriction to cause a pressure drop. the smaller the orfice the better resolution of pressure drop we would have but this is the smallest hole i can figure out how to get. The idea here is as the cylinder leaks the air pressure off and due to the orfice the input pressure cant get air into and past the orfice fast enough to equalize the pressure. the lesser pressure is our loss and can be expressed in a percent. again this is easy if the input pressure is 100 psi and i will try that when i can. the goal is to make the ring and cylinder seal to where there is as little of a loss in pressure as possible ie if my reading was 79 over 80 psi then that would be less loss that 76 psi over 80.