You definetley want to stick with the stock CG, or at least don't go more than 5% forward from that point. You'll thank me during the power pattern if you use a strong engine for a typical Satelite like climb. Any further forward and it'll want to loop over and kiss its own tail. And as I suggested almost any amount of control at those speeds is way too much. At least with an RC carb you could sneak up on the climb trim. Actually forget I suggested the 5% forward option. Under power it'll still want to loop over strongly and with the CG being that far back the elevator response is touchy as you would expect. To offer some insight stab shims of only 1/32 can be the difference between a crash and a good climb in trimming these types of models.

The single sided elevator will work fine for the sort of pilot assisted recovery you describe. It's been done successfully before. I also know some guys that fly 1/2A Texaco models with this arrangement and it only needs very minor rudder compensations that you can only recognise after flying in lots of conditions and many flights.

You're on virgin ground with the spoileron system. But frankly for this size model I'd suggest you stick with fin and rudder. I'd think about mounting the two servos in the fuselage just behind the pylon and use kevlar pull-pull links for both the rudder and stab. Keep the servos in line and be sure to use spruce longerons along that area and back to about 18 inches behind the pylon to compensate for weakening the fuselage spine that close to the load center with the openings. That would let you make the tail removeable very easily for transport. If you go for a typical Satelite climb you won't need to worry about oil as the run will only be about 20 to 25 seconds after release.

Ideally you want to use a combo of balance point shifts, rudder and elevator trim and engine thrust offseting to achieve a full power climb that goes straight up with about 2 to 2/12 turns in the climb. If it tries to loop over during this corkscrew climb then move the balance back a trifle and retrim the elevator until it stays vertical but in the corkscrew turn without rotating past vertical. That's the short version but it should help you get going. Use the fast idle to gain 50 or so feet and then feed in power until you hit the right pattern under full throttle or it diverges from what you want. Adjust trims, balance or engine thrust as required and try again until it's right. And set it up for a right corkscrew under power and an open 100 to 120 foot circle under glide. Use the controls as required to intterupt the path to direct or recover. This all sounds like a lot of work but if you make the engine mount to allow for adjustments then it's really not as bad as you think. And think of the aerodynamics you'll learn.

And just imagine the shocked look in your buddy's faces when you launch the model under full power with the TX sitting on the ground beside you. After a scorching 20 to 25 second climb and with the model a dot under the clouds you calmly reach down and with one finger non chalantly flick the throttle control to "off". Up there the model pauses and flips into a floating glide to circle serenly overhead like a hunting hawk.......

Excuse me, I 'm getting all goose bumpy just thinking about it....