1/ Slipper Clutch: Most people tighten more than the manual specifies. Fully tighten and then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.</p>

2/ I don't find the paper method reliable. Tighten the 4 engine mount to mounting plate bolts untilquite snug. Check the mesh for "play". There should be just a little (as if you removed the paper with the paper method). Toadjust it, slip a small flat-bladed screwdriver in one of the mounting bolt slots in the mounting plate and twist it a bit to move the engine mount as required. Make sure all front slots show the same exposed amount as the rear. Re-check for the play you need and now fully tighten engine mounting bolts. Re-check for the play you need. Re-do if it changed, which can happen when you do the final tightening. When checking for play, spin the spur and make sure there are no places where it gets tight. If there is, and probably there will be, increase the mesh clearance until there isn't any tight spots.</p>

3/ Double check your engine mounting plates and in particular the screws that hold the plate to the supporting square bars. If the plate is cracked or one of those screws is broken (usually the right rear screw), the engine will rotate CCW (to the left when viewed from the rear) under hard torque. This eliminates the mesh clearance, jams the gears together,and prematurely wears or breaks, the teeth.</p>

4/ You can still have problems 2 and 3 occur with steel gears. I destroyed a set of Robinson CB/Spur gears because I didn't notice the right rear engine mounting plate screw had broken and the mounting palte ahd cracked. I've gone back to plastic, and switched to the thicker LX mounting plate as well as using better quality counter-sunkmachine screws to hold the enigne mounting plate to the square support rails, and no more problems.</p>