Hey Rafa,

thanks for the feedback.

I had envisioned how to cool these puppies some time ago with the planning of the Nanorare (48" span 25 size Tipo). Although Iinverted the access to the interior making the canopy removable instead of making the fuse bottom into a hatch, the cooling will be the same.

You'll see two circles drawn on the FW in the first picture of the formers. The top one basically is a hole which is concentric with the motor. The motor cables will probably pass back through this hole. Below it is another smaller hole which will be inline with the bored out fuse chin. This will funnel air straight on to the ESC which Ihad envisioned putting on the fuse floor. Now, I'm thinking that it might be a better idea to locate it on the underside of the battery tray. Wouldn't want a landing to wreck the ESC through direct contact. Either way, air flows over the ESC and allows air into the motor bay.

For the battery itself, which will sit atop a tray located on the thrust line (probably sitting half way along F2), another hole will be bored out in the canopy front and directed downward straight on to the battery. Much like a TP exhaust diverter if you will. This is shown in the sketches Imade on the Nano plans some time ago and is the same idea that Mark had for his mini-CurarE (see Tipo plans thread).

For the motor, Imay build two small NACA inlets on either side of the motor bay if needed. I'd rather direct another tunnel from the canopy hole straight on to the motor from the top to keep the lines clean. Air will be exhausted out the bottom rear in front of the sub fin in order to avoid weakening the fuse behind the wing TE. The latter area is probably where the model will be held to launch it.

I'm glad you're working on your replacement Pico! Ihave to say that the fuse front was a workout. Perhaps I was a little tired but it took more work than Ienvisioned for such a small model. Some shaping still remains to be done. Isheeted my Deception 10 (D10)wings with 1/16". It came out a tad heavier but then alot of it is due to the fact it is a larger wing and it has a bellypan. I did use 16-18g sheets on the D10. I hope you found some light stock in that weight range - alot of it can be 23-27 g weight. With a good sanding you can bring it down to 1/32 and still keep it light.

While the D10 has 308 squares of area, the Pico (T10) only has around 270 (1.875 sq ft) if Irecall correctly (have to check the D10 thread). In order to keep the model at good wing loadings (especially for electric), she should be sub 32 oz (2 lbs). Ideally, she'd come in around 28 oz for a wing loading of under 15 oz/sq ft. Ibelieve that light 2100 packs come in around 150g (5.5 oz). One way to reduce the AUW would be do go with an 1600/1800 pack. FPhas some nice new (albeit pricey ~$45) EON-X lights 1600's at 123g (4.3 oz). However, if Ifind my 15C TP prolites (2100's) are too heavy or lack punch, Imay try out the low cost 25C Zippy/Rhino batts which cost 1/3-1/2 of that.

Happy building!

David.