Well I see you edited your post and took out where I was a idiot, stupid and if I said I could do it three times and get the same reading I was a lair, Will do another post later to see if that is all true
no sorry wasent me. must be the adminisrators. they get a bit fussy about that as they dont seem to want us to work out our own problems.
Look I dont recall calling you an idiot and i certianly dont recall calling you stupid. I did call you ignorant and that is very different as it means uneducated and that can be changed. and all i was saying was that with your method. if you can set your timming. then move your degree wheel on the crank so it is all screweed up from where it was. re zero thedegree wheel on the crankusing your method and now see where the spark is in relation to your newly reset degree wheel. i really dout it would be where you just set it previosly. and if you got lucky and it came out the same then do it once more just to be sure. and again it is my OPINION that if you got the very same thing three times in a row you either got very lucky or you are a lyer. and yes as hard as it is to belive there are people that would rather lie than bite thier pride and say they were wrong. this is a real problem to me as it just leads to misinformation here.
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 9pt">10-12 On </span><span style="font-size: 10pt">compression </span><span style="font-size: 9pt">is right. Not 4. what you are doing is bring the piston up all the way. Let the compression leak off. then move it back and forth. You will see that it will be about 10 to 12. divide in 1/2 and that is TDC, set timing. run engine see what you get with rpm. Move timing to see if you get more or less. Set it for the best running that you like and your done. it is not that hard and no one will die with a off timing RC plane. </span>
I was reading same thread....seems like no timing wheel is needed or piston stop. Just get engine running and advance timing in small amounts untill top RPM is reached. My next engine will have a moveable pick-up to advanceand retard spark a few degrees. Some new engines come that way. I do not see what all the fuss is about. Go cool your brains a bit. Capt,n
Ok first off you say there is a 10-12 degree dead spot with no movement of the piston at tdc. I can tell you for a fact that you are dead wrong. here is a pic of how i did this.
Ok so there it is. spark plug drilled out to accept $10 harbor friegth dial indicator and cross drilled and threaded to accept a set screw. its not that hard. or expensive.
Ok so now are honestly gona tell me that 10-12 degrees from eyeball is correct and 4 degrees measured from a dial indicator is not.Honestly is that what your saying??? i think theres enough said there.
Ok you guys are right. you dont need a degree wheel or a pistion stop or a dial indicator or any of that to set the timming. Just be aware that what you have is a very inacurate guess as to where you have your timming set. and yes it will be close enough that you can hand tune it from there till it runs good. but again you still do not know where your timming is set. if this method works for you great use it. I dont care and i really dont think anyone else does.
Where I have a real problem with your meathod is the fact that you get on this forum and proclaim that you have your timming set at 28 degrees. Ie oh yea i built this engine and it swings a 18 inch prop at blah blah blah and i set my timming at 28 degrees blah blah blah. you proclaim it as fact when in all reality you have no idea where your timming is set. so others get on here and get this bit of great misinformation and get so freaking confused. If your gona do a half ***** guess method say it is a half ***** guess. do not proclaim it as pure hard core fact set perfect timming at a specified degree when it is not and you really dont know where it is.
The other problem is when it gets posted that oh yea my engine wont run good. I dont understand why this is.I have my timming set at 28 degrees. The rest of us get really frustrated trying to help you out and get your engine running good and we didnt get the right information in the first place. again this propagates more misinformation and there is all kinds of advice given on carbs and so on and so on when it is incorectly set timming to begin with.
Heres some food for thought. When I work on a full scale aircraft. I set the timming to the manufactures specification as per the FAA. Never ever anywhere by the manufaturer or in FAA aproved procedures does it say that if you set it at this specified timming and it dosent run good then adjust it by hand till it does. The procedure and timming is absolute that if it dosent run right and you have the timming set dead on where it should be then there is something else wrong with the engine and you need to follow the diagnostic procedures to find it.
also why are all the factory ignitions set at 28 degrees on a stock ignition? why dosent ryobi and poulan and all the others have an adjustable timming? cause they all know that 28 degrees is correct timming and gives the best power and if it dosent run good on this timming there is something else wrong with it.
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