Thanks TechyJoe.
With painting the board, I sanded it back with fine sand paper. Then sprayed with Tamiya primer (I made a little mistake by using a grey primer which dulled the orange colour down instead of using white). Use white primer if your using a light colour over the top.
I sprayed the orange colour on using 2 coats and then used a clear hobby spray to protect it. I used 3 coats of that.
The stickers I used came with the Kyosho dude. It even had a long thin sticker to use as the stringer.
Using the Lipo's looks like it's the way to go then if your getting 25 min runtime out of them. I will be stoked to get that sort of time with mine.
The Lipo I ordered is a 3000mah 35C 11.1v. Hopefully this will get similar results to yours.
the water jacket I got from offshoreelectrics. This is the one.......
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-mjacket
It has a rubber o'ring on each end that seals the jacket once placed over the motor. This way the water is making direct contact with the motor housing which I'm hoping should keep things cooler.
If you using the cooling coil you could try what Brendon has done with mine which is spread the coils apart so they cover a greater amount of the motor.
You could also try changing your water inlet & outlet to be similar to what Brendon has done with mine which is making the inlet face the front of the board underneath so that water is forced in as the board moves along. And the outlet the opposite.
Then on the inside of the hull he has made them L-shaped so that the water hoses run along side the battery then into the cooling coil.
Also another tip is finely coat most metal surfaces with wax. This will help stop corrosion. Brendon has even put it over the cooling coil & and motor housing as well as the screws etc.. I'm not sure what type of wax it is, but it's only a real fine coat (Almost not noticable). I will find out next time I speak to him what type it is. I'm pretty sure it's not your normal surfboard wax though.
Let me know if you need anymore info.