Thanks Charlie - I thought about using the crank as a mandrel, and if I had the time and energy to repeat the process I would definitely do that.

To machine the inside taper I mounted the crank in the lathe (actually the whole engine, before I cut off the rear part of the crank), dialed it in and then set my compound to the same angle as the taper with a test indicator. I center-drilled the hub and then drilled a hole to the depth of the threaded shaft, using the appropriate size for an 8mm tap (Ican't remember the size). I bored the taper to the diameter and depth of the crankshaft taper using the compound, leaving a 1.5mm shoulder and checked VERY carefully towards the end. I threaded the deeper part of the hole with a bottoming tap held in a drill chuck in the tailstock. Now I'm thinking that it might have been smarter to tap the hole first and then bore the taper. I machined the outside of the rear part of the hub to size before I parted it off from the bar stock.

Ihave a Chinese 10 x 18" lathe similar to the Grizzly Tools model. Actually the company is owned by a relative of the Grizzly Tools folks - Busy Bee Tools in Canada. Ialigned the tailstock using the razor-blade-between-centers technique. Never did a test bar.

Now that I think of it, drilling the threaded hole rather than boring or reaming it might have been a mistake.

KD