I answer to the question about what a dig unit is... it allows you to either lock, disengage(freewheel), engage the rear wheels of the truck in order to be able to maneuver the front of the vehicle across rock faces without having to go into reverse which would lose you points in a comp. The dig bolts directly to the tranny. I use a DNA dig unit which is one of the better digs available for the AX-10 IMO, I did alot of researching before installing mine, and in the end,the most commonly used dig on a comp rig was the DNA (or VF with the older models) thry run aroung 100-140 bucks new, and are built tough as heck. you will need a second HiTec mini servo that will mount on the dig, and a radio with a 3rd channel that has 3 positions to get the full functionality. you will also need to use a shortened rear shaft and mirror your tranny for a dig to work.
if you are looking to turn your AX-10 into a true comp rig, start saving, it can get expensive
god only know my crawler cost me more than any other vehicle I own, but it is well worth it now that it is finished.
here are some of the mods/ hop ups I have just to give you an idea:
1) CKRC "rockstar" Chassis with a delrin skid plate - has better triangulation reducing torque twist, the delrin slides over rough surfaces reducing snagging. torque twist is a crawler's tendecy to twist when under power with a higher torque motor. also offers a slightly lower COG since the configuration uses saddle pack batteries that get mounted on the front axle on either side of the servo. more weight up front will make sure your front end stays well planted very important!!!
2) Losi Threaded aluminum shocks with double white (super soft) springs & 30 wt oil- There are other shocks out there too, just be sure to ditch the plastic stockers they are crap and notorious for the caps popping off. soft springs and light oil will make sure you have smooth articulaiton and also that your tires will crawl uneven surfaces better, the heavier weight oil will keep the mmovement smoother and slower too.
3) diff lockers - Locking the diffs is important in comp crawlers, you do not want to have a wheel get bound, and then as a result have one in the rear start spinning backwards losing you points. comp crawling is forward only.
4) Aluminum links & the Axial Delrin high clearance link end kit - these will stiffen the triangulation, and offer more solidity to your ride I suggest using the high clearance (bent) ones in the rear, also they make clear delrin tubes that look like thick soda straws which I recommend getting to put the aluminum links in, Aluminum has a tendancy to get bound up on rocks, where as delrin will glide, plus it will keep you nice shiny aluminum links from getting all scratched up... Also the reason you want the Axial Delrin link ends is simple, they are cheap and easy to replace. you WANT your crawler to have a "break" point in the exent you have a bad tumble. the little link end will fail, and is a 5 minute 50 cent repair... I just recently saw a guy usng aluminum end,take a tumble and snap the axle mount and put himself on the bench...
5) Holmes Hobbies 35 Turn Handwound motor - Holmes makes some of the BEST brushed motors out there for crawling, I recommend them HIGHLY!! the lower the turns the more torque that is produced... not as good for trail rigs, but the absolute best for technical runs and rock piles! higher turn motors like 55 turns, is a faster motor, better suited for trail runs.
6) Axial slipper clutch - I recommend this especially if you have a torqey motor like I do... the slipper prevents the pinion from chewing up my spur when I manage to get my wheel bound up.
7) Panther Cougar Tires & MDX aluminum Beadlocks - These are the best of the best crawlin tires, and are uber soft and have more grip than even rock claws, or flat irons!. the majority of guys you will see winning comps probably use these. I also keep a back up set of the losi tires, they are a solid runner up to the cougars. The aluminum beadlocks, are just a personal preference since they add more weight. speaking of weight you want more in front than in the rear. the easiest way to add weight to your rims is those stick on tire weights from the local tire shop. free and easy to use. I 14oz front and 10 oz rear. that is my preference, and believe me I can get my ax-10 to crawl some pretty incredible places.
8) Saddle pack NiMh batteries - since I use the Rooster crawler and a brushed motor, I lik NiMh batteries much more I just do not trust the volatile nature od a LiPo given the tendancy of a bad move to send my rig sprawling down a hill... LiPo if damaged can burst into flames... not going on my 1000+ dollar rig... plus the NiMh packs add some extra weight to the front, and also help keep COG nice and low!
9) HiTec servos - you want the best and that is HiTec period. I use a HS-5955-TG coreless digital for steering and a HS-225-MG for my dig unit. HiTec has been the most reliable servo I have ever owned, plus they have a lifetime guaranty, so how can you go wrong...
10) MIP CVD shafts - they are the best hardened steel CVD available for the AX-10 and are safe to use as steel is alot harder than aluminum and will not bind up on rocks so much. the only thing is for a dig unit you have to get the shortened MIP shaft for the rear, and it is seldom available. I am currently using a Traxxas shaft in the rear since it was easy to cut and fit to my Dig. as soon as I can get the MIP shor bone though, I will be using that in my rear too... if you cannot get MIPs the traxxas shafts are worlds better than the axial shafts.
11) last but not least you will want a good 2.4 GHz radio system Like a SPektrum... the DX3R is your best bet if you want to run a dig since it has a 3 Position 3rd channel. I have the DX3S currently, and sadly the aux channel is only 2 position, so I am not getting full functionality of my dig till I sell off my second DX3S, and get a DX3R. the reason you want a 2.4Ghz radio is simple no glitching, and you will want to set your servo end points.
a note on atriculation - you will see some guys who can nearly twist their crawler into a full 90 degree angle... here is where the saying "form over function" applies... I admit it looks way cool that you can stand your crawler on one axle while the rear is still flat, but believe me when I tell you this is a USELESS feature, and will end up getting you into more trouble than you bargained fore in the way of getting stuck... on a good comp rig you want 60 degrees of articulation twist comfortably, and no more that 80 degrees when pressed hard
that is all I can recommend, and believe me there are numerous other hopups, and manufacturers, hop ups, and other stuff you can do which is what makes the AX-10 such a fun model... just when you think you have it dialed something newer and better pops up... I just like to share my billions of hours of time resaech and field testing that I have put into my AX-10 to make it a true "comp" rig... [sm=punching.gif]
Oh last suggestion... AVOID integy parts for the AX-10..... They are not of the best quality, I am not going to knock Integy, but have seen wayyyyy too many guys with broken integy stuff on their crawler...
hope this helps any newcomer to the AX-10, and anytime you have questions, or need advice, please feel free to PM me!
