ORIGINAL: da Rock
Beginners should really rely on the techniques to set the needle properly, and learn to judge the needle setting in the air.
The problem with quoting head temps is that almost nobody knows a number that works with all the different engine sizes, fuel mixes, prop diameters, prop pitch, plane weights, etc etc. Also, the process of reading the temp is not simple. Different head types also dissipate heat differently, some do better than others so the cylinders underneath are feeling it differently. Engine size also matters. The smaller engines actually have problems keeping enough heat in them to run well without higher nitro fuels. As size goes up in the larger engines, they hold/lose heat longer/slower.
4strokes have lots more head and run hotter temps than 2strokes. Did you know that the temps in the top of our engines vary by location. And of course, vary by how different areas are cooled by airflow.
There doesn't seem to be a database anywhere and there's a fairly good reason. Actually, as you see, there are a number of reasons.
The best one can be that the temp some guy remembers for his model isn't reliable for yours.
Some techniques can work for experienced flyers, but some aren't really the best for beginners.
How true. When I used to build VW powered sand rails once in a while someone would put a head temp gauge on there car. Being used to water cooled engines these people would go nuts when they saw what there little air cooled engines were running.
For the OP, engine temp depends more on correct tune plus enough oil content in the fuel. Most glow fuel has 17 or 18% and that is plenty. On the bench and during break in an engine will tend to run a bit hot anyway, that's one of the reasons we start breaking them in at a very fat setting and lean as we go. Prop size is also another little thing you may want to check.