All biplanes are a hoot to fly. Stunt biplanes especially so. You have much more drag, but also, depending on model, more lift and a shorter moment arm for roll (narrower relative wingspan = faster rolls) and most are pretty short coupled for tight loops, also. Bipes do things differently. Not better or worse - just different. I can't speak for the little foam oddities they fly indoors with drag panels and reversable props. I'm talking the ones that react like aircraft.

A scale Pitts Special can be a handful when taxiing or taking off. An Ultimate is one of the best stunt airplanes . . . ever (but that's a biased opinion). With enough engine it will do the 3-D stuff, but with a reasonable engine it stunts marvelously yet is easy to fly when slowed down and on low rates or exponential throws . And for just lazy Sunday aerobatics one of the 1930's styles can be great fun. Doing loops at a walking speed and graceful stall turns and such. If you want to get into IMAC style maneuvers (like planes with human pilots do) a biplane with upper and lower ailerons would be recommended. And here's where that rudder training is needed. Ground handling a narrow carriage bipe takes a lot of rudder and elevator to keep from ground looping or nosing over. Until you get that tail flying they can be alarming. Again, put enough engine up front and you can get away with slam and bang take-offs. But eventually that technique will bite you.

Biplanes take appreciably longer to set up at the field because of the struts and cabanes. Figure five to 15 minutes additional unless you go hog wild and build a WWI biplane with flying and landing wires. They also have an extra wing you have to transport. My 27% Ultimate and flight box absolutely fills my Jetta Sport Wagon. I have to deflect the rudder to close the rear hatch and the spinner and prop is beside my seat.