The engine runs so it must be a fuel/air delivery problem. It can be in the carb needle settings, the fuel lines to the engine (possibly reversed), or the fuel line/clunk in the fuel tank.

Try resetting your low end needle. Open carb to about 1/4 throttle setting. Turn high end needle about 5 turns from closed. Open carb to full throttle and use a clean piece of fuel tubing attached to the carb and blow into it with your mouth. This ensures your high end needle is allowing fuel (in this case air) to flow into the carb. If it doesn't, than try another turn out or finding the obstruction.

Once you've verified the high end needle valve is working properly and allows air to be blown into the carb at full throttle, now (keep the same high end needle setting 5-6 turns out) and close throttle to about 1/4 throttle setting. Turn low end needle valve so it is completely seated (meaning closed byturning it clockwise, do this gently and don't force anything). Now with the carb opened at 1/4 throttle setting, SLOWLY rotate the low end needle valve counterclockwise (to richen the low end mixture) while simultaneously trying to blow air into the carb through the clean fuel tubing. Stop richening the low end needle valve when you first "feel" (more accurate) or hear air leaking into the carb.

Now, return to high end needle valve and close it completely and open it about 2 1/2 turns from closed. Recheck to make sure this 2 1/2 turn setting allows air to flow into carb and double check the low end needle setting to see if you can blow air into it with carb at 1/4 throttle setting. If all checks out, then attached fuel tank line to engine, prime engine manually with engine at full throttle, return to slightly less than 1/4 throttle, attached glow driver and start with starter.

As soon as it fires up, don't touch anything. Leave glow driver on and let engine warm up for about 30 seconds. Now with glow driver still on, slowly advance throttle setting. You should be able to get it to full throttle. If it dies from going from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and above (with glow attached) it probably means you are too lean on the low end needle valve. Just open it (low end needle valve) up a little bit (about an 1/8 of a turn or less). Repeat as necessary until engine can advance above 1/2 throttle without dying. Once it can run at 1/2 and above, remove glow driver and go to full throttle. At full throttle, lean out high end needle valve to max lean rpm and then richen the high end needle mixture by 400 rpm or so when you pinch the fuel line briefly at full throttle the engine speeds up a little and then returns to its setting. The pinch test verifies if you are too rich or too lean. If you are too lean, when you pinch and release the fuel tubing the engine will die or not speed up at all. If you pinch and release and engine speeds up a lot, you are too rich, etc..etc.. The right setting is when your engine speeds up a little, about 300-400 rpm (a tach would help with getting your ears tuned in this area)

have fun and just use a methodical method to tune your needles. Remember, high end needle normally works at 1/2 throttle and above and low end needle affects the idle and transition to full throttle. Also, if you adjust low end, you must check and adjust high end. The two needles can interact with each other. If you forget which direction to turn the needle, just use a clean piece of fuel tubing attached to the carb and blow into it to determine if your adjustment reduced the flow or increased the flow for whatever needle you were adjusting. Its really simple once you get the hang of it and this procedure will make you the club engine expert tuner!