Just a note for thought, thick CA won't absorb into the wood as good as thin will, but it will give a stronger joint when dried and more time to move a part if installed wrong.
I have used CA glues since it first came out and still use it today ,Guess i'm one of the lucky ones the fumes don't seem to bother, but I don't try to breath anymore of it than I have to. I do use the titebond or elmers also and of course epoxy when I need the max strength,wing bolt plates, firewalls, landing gear plates and so forth.
I'm not a big fan of Gorila glues, as they do foam up and pieces glued with it needs to be clamped otherwise things don't turn out so hot.
As many planes as I build each year I just coudn't get done useing anything other than CA glues in the time I have to spare to build.

Tip if you have a build up spot of CA as a rule to much glue was used, use masking or duck tape around the area and sharp sand paper on a block or stick and usually it will sand off ok, at least it does for me. The trick is catch it early before it has a chance to really get hard hard.
Accelerators make the CA glues dry faster and is needed at times, but here is where I watch the fumes ,it will acually boil the glue if to much is used and looks like a weld full of puriosity and really isn't all that great of a joint. A very light mist of accelerator is all I ever use. I can somehow manage to hold even the more stubborn parts in place while the glue sets.
Good Luck with your build glad i'm not alone yet when it comes to building .