Welcome to owning a MT2

IMO $200 was kinda on the high side, but it depends on the trucks shape, and he did give you alot of the starting gear with it (I spent around $70 on that stuff) along with shipping (shipping would have been around $12 UPS ground) and a new body (generally $25ish +tax) so it kinda evens out to around a $100ish for the truck which isn't too bad. Personally in general when shopping for a used truck (alot of other people say the same thing) pretend the engines blown and bid from there on ebay. Few months back I got a Savage X for $200 and the guy said he ran 5 tanks of fuel in it. The engine was completely shot, on the other hand I believe he only ran the 5 tanks(hell he even shipped it with the last tank of fuel still in it...) due to the truck only having 5 tiny scratches on it (now it looks like it went through a war), but I bid on it as if the engine was totaled and had cash to spare for a new one.


If its a G3 it should have the hardened diffs, to my knowledge only the original MT2(from around 2004) and MT1 didn't have them but even those diffs are pretty damn good and can take some abuse. We have people here running K4.6's and K5.9's (1/8th scale engines off of savages) on their MT1\MT2's with older diffs and they have no issues so you should be good.

To my knowledge all of the aluminum parts are made by GPM, I haven't seen any other manufacturers.

Things recommended in aluminum from my experiences are front knuckles, rear wheel hubs, steering assembly, and the shock towers. I never had a issue with the stock ones but needed a new one due to a upgrade and the aluminum one I found for the same price as the nylon so I figured bling bling time .

From personal experience I do not recommend the arms at all. I was having trouble keeping my truck going straight and couldn't figure out the issue. Broke a part and had to take the rear of the truck apart and when I put the arms down they were slightly bent. They also broke the rear lower arm bulk mounting holes and royally warped the pins to the point I couldn't straighten them out. I went back to nylon ones and had no issues like that since. The nylon they use now is probably WAY stronger than the stuff that you had in the mid 80's so I would try it out 1st.

Also do not get the adjustable tie rods I use them, and they strip out fairly often. HPI (according to the manual) went back to solid nylon tie rods on the G3 for a reason (still need to get me a set).

C-hubs I still have to get a set but they seem like a worthy upgrade. The rest of the parts like the center gear box, diff cases, and radio tray bling to your hearts content