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Old 11-21-2009, 11:32 PM
  #21  
MTK
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Whippany, NJ
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Default RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)


ORIGINAL: flywilly

Hi Matt,
Can you please post some photos of your engine mount/installation. I'm very interested. I'm a longtime OS140 fan. I have not run a Webra, though I own a 160 and a 145. I have run Bully engines extensively both the 120 and the 145 and found them powerful, reliable and easy to run. I understand the Bully was basically a Webra with a few modifications including a 2-plug head. You mentioned there are issues running Webras, what are they? Is the Syssa pretty much a mount and fly type engine?
Thanks,
Will B.
Will,

The Webras are very strong engines but the main thing they tend to suffer from is that the low end needle quality control tends to vary from engine to engine. The 145 blackhead I ran originally (started my learning curve on) was an instant success from the start. Low end openend 1 1/2 turns and high speed needle opened I think 40 clicks. The engine started and ran exactly where it needed, fat, but took the throttle okay. It allowed me to get the necessary break in without burning the engine up as so many have done. After ever two flights, I leaned the high speed needle 1 click. After 10 flights or so, the engine was pretty much where it needed to be at 34 clicks open and 1 1/4 open on the low end.

On the next 145, I tried to duplicate the settings and the engine just ran hot. I realized that it wasn't the high speed needle that caused the problem but rather the low speed. It was too lean

I had similar issues with the 160 and have finally come to tame that beastie too. The key thing to remember with the engine is that when you first start it, from the very start, you got to make sure that both needles are rich enough. A couple of lean runs at the start and the bearing will be affected. Then you are chasing your tail. That's why so many fellas had trouble with the engine...the low end variability caused erratic, hot running, which in turn burned up the bearings prematurely and didn't know it.

Here's a simple cook book formula: low end open 2 turns (should be too rich and that's the point) and hi end open 40 clicks (also rich). The settings should be too rich to fly and you should need to have the igniter on to make it transition. Pipe set with main reflector at 24" from exhaust flange to baffle, straight line (don't follow the header curve). If your exhaust header is straight, add another 3/4" to the length. I used to use OS type F plug but have found that KB 1L plugs work just as well and transition slightly better. It's nice that a 1 dozen card of plugs costs only about 30$ but that's of no consequence. The plug simply works. Anyway, run one tank out with the rich settings, on the ground. Then low end in 1/8 turn at a time and high end in 1 click at a time until the engine takes the throttle and it should stumble but don't fret it. You want the first 10 flights as rich as possible but lean enough to allow the engine to run in the air. Be prepared for dead sticks

After 10 flights you should be no leaner than about 1 1/8 (but on your carb, it may be slightly more) on the low end and around 34 clicks on the hi end. I ran mine there for years. Sure they need a bit of a tweek with changing weather; they all do. And be patient, you don't want to burn it up prematurely. The main bearing should last over 400 flights as long as you run it out completely after every session and lubricate the bearing between sessions. I have used castor oil for after run for ever and recommend this method.

The Syssa 30 cc is extremely good engine, better than most. The Webra 160 and the YS 170 are stronger but the Syssa offers simplicity of operation (after the initial learning curve of the CDI, batteries, choke arrangement and rear carb) low purchase and operation cost, and maintenance should be practically nil as most gas engines are. Vibration is almost nothing...the smoothest running 2 stroke I have ever seen. Mine is soft mounted on a mount similar to the Hyde that I built. No nose ring in mine and I don't think it will be needed

I may reconsider on how strong the engine is after break in is complete but as of right now, that's what I know. And how it operates in summer needs to be experienced. But I don't hesitate to recommend it right now. I have my new design set-up for the ZDZ 40 cc engine and I intend to convert it to the Syssa to save about 10 to 12 ozs. The plane should be around 10 pounds instead of pushing 11. Will try to have the plane done for the Nats

Hope that helps. I will post photos soon. Ed took a bunch of photos today so he may forward them to me and I will post them. He will probably write a follow up article in the KFactor

Matt