More wing. Picture's here, as follow's. Everyone has their own method, and I will use Klixmaster's set-up of the retract gear mount's. He is doing the thread on a Vertigo II. Later on that. Line on root, centering up LE and TE. The LE is the main subject, to mark the skin that will wrap, no formed LE stock here. I have centered the 1/16" X 6" sheet, a line horizontally down the middle of the root and tip. When the skin is set on the LE, wet, there are three reference line's. Root, tip and skin.
Thinking Out Loud
Doing this by yourself, the homework makes it easy. The method here, the skin's will be on a flat surface, usually use glass, inside up, the reference line horizontal down the middle, as shown, the LE of the core will be set directly on this line. This is the reason the root and tip have line's centered, fore and aft. All surface's will have the Sorghum correctly applied, then carefully wrap. I have seen DB use metal rod's, to secure skin's tight to the cores.
I may layer cut it all, butt glue, for complete sheets, do it all at one time. I am not using the bag and vac method, or any waxpaper. It will wrap on the LE, sheet down the whole core, one side, then the other.
This may be the old fashioned way, I will keep doing it. Using DB's Southern Sorghum. Tom Scott explained the vac and bag method when at the pylon race's at Ft. Lauderdale Saturday. Have to learn this method, get in the 21st century.

I stripped the tip's, they are used as previously posted, taped them together, eyed them up, had to use the rasp and sanding block to make them a matched pair. In previous post, I was going to make the 1/16" plywood template's, to sandwich in between the upper and lower halve's of the tips, then you carve and sand around that center ply piece, making and exact L&R. Saving time, I recycled the old tips. Aileron's, same thing.
The TE should take 3/8" square stock, none here, but have everything else. I used the lightest piece's of 1/2"X1/4" I had here, made 1/2" piece's for L & R, epoxied to core TE. These TE's will be trimmed to level with the core's. Next up, a 1/8" cap on the core tip.
The skin's will overlap all this, then on to finish. I will cut out the wheel well's, retract and strut area's, after skinning. May use the Robart barrel hinge's for a clean look, sectioned in.

I have some of the formed wheel well pair's, dunno if I will use them, feather-lite, cleans up the well, will fit under the skin's.
More later,
Crank