Originally posted by JimRoss
Bob, NEVER split the wires on your switch harness. The diagram in post #14 shows a separate swithc that controls the power to the ignition module from the ignition battery.
On a standard magneto ignition engine all you have to do is bring a wire from the primary of the magneto to a switch and then to the engine case. You can either make it ( the switch) manual or servo operated. Mine is servo operated from the transmitter so I can kill the engine by simply using my Channel 5 switch on the radio.
Hi Jim,
Unless I am mistsken, Bob appears to have an electronic ignition module setup that uses a designated battery to power its operation. The only way to stop the electronic ignition from operating is to "open" the battery wires with a switch of some sort or by disconnecting the battery altogether. One could wire an adapter with the RC-100 in it that goes between the ignition module and the battery if they do not want to cut wires.
In your post, you are talking about a magneto setup, where the ignition is powered by a magnet triggering the coil and so forth, hence spark. I don't quite understand how Bob would ground out an electronic ignition setup as one does with a magneto.
In regards to all the other concerns about EMI, no circuit is immune to interference. Look at all wires as antennas. They can either pick up or give off energy based on what is being transmitted down the line, dependent on frequency and other factors. Knowing the design of the RC-100, it would be very difficult for it to have any energy communicated through the battery leads being switched and onto the servo wires on the enclosed circuit. Hence, if you have problems with energy on the battery wires to your ignition, this shows some inherent EMI problems with the electronic ignition and I'd be worried about things without an electronic switch. Inserting a switch or any wires of any kind could magnify a pre-existing problem.
Regards,