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Old 12-10-2009 | 05:26 PM
  #28  
DougC1
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From: Concord, NH
Default RE: Banshee

Fiberglassing has commenced. I’m using Great Planes ¾ oz fiberglass, and Great Planes Finishing resin.

The resin is mixed 1 part resin, 1 part hardener, and 1 part Denatured alcohol. The alcohol and the hardener are combined and thoroughly mixed. The thinned hardener is then combined with the resin, mixed well, and allowed to sit for a few minutes.

The cloth is laid in place, brushed down with a natural hair paintbrush (places a bit of static cling to the cloth), and a foam brush is used to apply the thinned resin. I start in the center of the section to be ‘glassed, and work my way outward with a light jabbing motion. This method applies a very thin coat of resin, and rarely induces a wrinkle.

Generally, I like to have control over where the overlap seams are going to be, so I tend to place masking tape on the plane, and ‘glass just over the tape. Once the resin has dried, the raised edge created by the tape provides a good surface to sand/cut through the applied ‘glass. Although a bit more time is involved, I’ve found that having a straight line for the joint makes my life easier when feathering the seam (I know where it is….).

Also, in tight locations, the seam can be cut/scored, and sanded lightly to remove the tape. This can allow for a butt joint with adjoining pieces, an advantage where swinging a sanding bar is difficult.

Seams and edges are cut with 220 Wet/Dry, but most of the sanding is with 320 grit. The resin is thin enough so that minimal sanding is needed.

Usually a couple of passes are made with a hair dryer to help the resin penetrate the glass and balsa

The starting weight of the wing, less the ailerons and aileron servo covers, is 1.5 pounds (669 grams). We'll see where we end up.

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