heyyou,
As is usual when a question like this gets asked, you'll get a lot of varied responses and most of them are VERY good with tried and true methods and materials. I agree with just about every thing that has been shared thus far.

CA (superglue) is a great adhesive and works in most situations but that being said does not mean it is always the BEST choice. Below is an excerpt from an e-mail I sent to a gentlemen in England, he has never built a tank model in his life, and he went out and bought a Tamiya Pz IV. Over the last few months I have been walking him step by step through the build process. This is what 35+ years of building models has taught me about what adhesives to use and for what applications. I hope you find it a least a little helpful.

Lets talk a little bit about glues and adhesives. Hopefully you're still with me, I know I'm long winded sorry! But I try to be thorough, and I hope you find that helpful. Obviously there are all kinds of glues and adhesive and each serves a specific purpose or is designed to glue specific materials. You've heard me talk about solvents, there is also CA (Cyno Acrylate [Superglue]) contact cements, and double stick tape. What you are gluing, where it's being glued on the model, and it's function will dictate which adhesive is the best one to use.

Solvents
Solvents are basically chemicals that melt the plastic and join the two pieces being glued at a molecular level. Super strong joint and depending on which type of solvent usually dries fairly quickly. The big draw back to solvents is that once two pieces are glues together, you won't get them apart if you need too without damaging or destroying them completely. Secondly because solvents are designed to melt the plastic ( basically creating a plastic weld if you will) you have to use them somewhat sparingly and use caution in their application. If you spill solvent or get it on a visible part it will melt it as well. I've seen it many times, a modeler has a little solvent on his thumb, picks up his model and melts a thumb print right into the plastic -ouch! Most model glues like the old tube glue we used as kids are solvent based. Those gel type glues use the same principals of adhesion but dry much slower and sometimes require clamping or taping the parts while they dry. Today you can get water thin solvents that evaporate very quickly, and you get an almost instant bond. But being water thin you have to take caution, because it's easy to use too much and capillary action will make it run everywhere, and I mean everywhere especially where you don't want it too. They make purpose manufactured solvents such as Tenax 7, but like model paints you will pay more for less. If you can find it at your local hardware store or home improvement center one of the best things to use is straight MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). It's a solvent much like Acetone, but it evaporates a little slower. It was designed to thin and remove polyester and epoxy resins, inks, adhesives and contact cement. But as an added bonus it melts styrene plastic very nicely. Like anything else use caution when using it. Good ventilation is a must, avoid spilling it and skin contact if possible. You can use a purpose made applicator bottle (has a syringe type needle tip) or apply it with an old small paint brush. I prefer the brush as it gives you the most control. You can hold the two parts to be glued together and because it's water thin apply the solvent around the perimeter and capillary action will draw it into the joint. Only way to go on plastic to plastic joints THAT YOU DON'T EVER WANT TO GET APART (that's important, cause some thing you may want to take apart later for repairs)

CA (Superglue)
I'm sure you're familiar with this stuff. It is also sold in several viscosities from water thin, to gap filling, to thick gel. Not a bad idea to have all three, but if you prefer to keep cost down go with the middle thickness, usually referred too simply as "gap filling" by most manufacturers. This glue is the only glue of choice for adhering parts of dissimilar material. Gluing a plastic part to metal (such as photoetch details) or vice versa this is really you're only choice (well you could mix up and use two-part epoxy, but let's not go there). Like anything CA has it's pros and cons. It has tremendous holding power in both tare and tensile strength, but has virtually no sheer strength. Unless you use an accelerator ( I recommend you do - Zip Kicker is the best brand) it sometimes takes a few minutes to set up, unless of course you get it on you, then it bonds skin instantly, and I mean INSTANTLY!!!! CA is also hydroscopic (meaning it attracts and absorbs moisture) which will start to thicken it and prematurely age the glue, ruining it. Keep the cap on tightly, and whenever possible, and if the wife will allow it, store it in your refrigerator. The fridge has a dryer on the condenser that pulls most of the moisture out of the air, because dry air is easier to keep cold and is therefore more efficient.

Contact cements (including spray adhesives and rubber cement)
Are great for temporary bonds or light applications.You might only use this in one or two areas of the tank, and definitely in an area where you are pretty sure you going to have to remove that part at a later time for repair or maintenance on the tank. The one area that pops into mind for me, is that on many Tamiya tanks (Not your Panther) the road wheels are held on with a center screw threaded into the axle, then there is a decorative cap put in places to hide the screw. Contact cement is great because it will hold the cap in place during normal operation and vibration, but can be easily removed with just a little effort to access the screw should the need ever arise.

Double Stick Tape
Like the Contact Cement this is great for any parts that may need to come off or be relocated later. It's perfect for holding in your receiver once you get to a point where you want to install it. Most double stick tape will leave behind a sticky residue, but that can be easily removed by using another piece of double stick, contact cement thinner or even denatured alcohol (just be careful around your electronics) Tamiya supplies double stick in all of their kits.


Best of luck!
Squid