Alright, got a little more done today so here we go.

Picture 1.
First thing I did was cut the nose gear door flange for clearance for the hinges. Everything fits sweet in that recess, I had to order a 3-48 tap so I haven't drilled and tapped the holes for holding the door plate in place, as such, it's just taped.

Picture 2.
Here is a picture of the nose gear doors closed, the gaps are nice and tight, probably a touch to tight, I'll open them up a bit to leave room for paint. To make them nice and tight, I first cut out the gear doors, this left less than perfect lines. I block sanded all the edges to get them nice and straight. Then I masked off the door frame with one layer of masking tape. I then taped the doors back into the frame from the inside. When I was satisfied with the alignment I filled the gaps with polyester body filler. Once that dries, remove the tape holding the doors in and pop the doors out. The body fill doesn't stick well to the masking tape. Then a couple quick swipes with sandpaper and you have a perfect gap all the way around!

Picture 3.
I then removed the nose gear door plate. To install the nose retract, first I put some tape on the gear plate. Then I put the retract into the opening in the extended position. I measured the 5/8" distance from the edge of the recess to the gear strut as outlined in the instructions and marked the masking tape as to where the retract was supposed to fit. I then retracted the gear and lined it up on the same marks. Then while retracted, I put some glue on the retract itself and aligned it in the opening. I then drilled through the mounting holes in the retract into the plate. Then removed the gear, opened up the holes to accept the blind nuts and installed the blind nuts. To seat the blind nuts I used a C clamp to pull them into the plate.

Picture 4 & 5
Next I installed the air filler valve mount and the nose gear door cylinder mounts. I will put some epoxy over the blind nuts before I'm done don't worry.

Picture 6 & 7
The gear door cylinders needed to be shorted 1/4", I wrapped some tape around a pair of needle nose pliers so I wouldn't mark the rod and removed the links. I then marked how much I needed to cut off with some tape on the threads.

Picture 8.
Next I installed the main gear doors. Again I had to shorten the cylinders, no real magic here, just some careful measuring and sanding.

Picture 9.
Once the inner doors were installed, I installed the main gear using the same technique as described for the nose gear.

Picture 10.
Lastly for today I got one outer gear door installed, again, no magic, just some careful measuring and sanding. I need to open up a couple of the seams on the doors to ensure no snagging and room for paint, but it's pretty close so far!

Picture 11.
So here it is from the bottom with the gear and all but one door on

Picture 12.
And here she is sitting on her legs!