Save yourself a lot of trouble and just get the Finishing Epoxy. Its thinner, wets the cloth easier and quicker, and you don't have to worry about trying to heat it to get it to flow well. Your final result will be far stronger than it needs to be anyway, and its not that expensive.

If you don't have the backing from your covering available, waxed paper works very well. The easiest method I've found is to lay out a piece of waxed paper, lay out the glass cloth on the waxed paper, and put the epoxy onto the glass cloth. Don't drench it, just get it wetted out. Dabbing with your fingers while wearing latex or nitrile gloves works very well. Now pick up the waxed paper and lay the cloth in place. Use a credit card (or hotel room key card) and squeeze out excess epoxy. Leave the waxed paper in place until the epoxy has fully cured (24 hours). It will remove very easily from the fully cured epoxy. If you try to remove it before this stage, it will stick and tear and leave a mess that will have to be sanded off before covering.

If you do it right, you'll be able to see the weave of the cloth when you pull off the waxed paper. If you want to add a final coat of finishing epoxy afterward, it will leave a very nice glossy finishl

Finishing epoxy is also very good for fuel proofing, clear coating over painted parts, and even making repairs to clear canopies (as long as you don't get the amber tinted epoxy. Get the clear.) Its well worth the investment. It should be readily available in your LHS.

Brad