Were you aware that Great Planes has discontinued this kit? You possibly have one of the last ones to be made.
Have to agree - keep it light and keep the weight forward - "builds tail heavy" is usually a fact of life with this model. I use digital DS821 servos (the ones that come with your DX7) for all my planes, on all except throttles and flaps. I also use pull-pull rudders on all my planes including my Skybolt.
For the elevators I pinched someone else's idea and made a torque rod linking the left and right halves to avoid uneven movements from the offset elevator servo. It does work just fine, but if I were to do it again I'd be looking for something like [link=http://www.centralhobbies.com/control_linkage/bellcrnk.html]one of these[/link] dual elevator bell cranks. They fit into the fuselage towards the tail and take a single pushrod, with dual pushrods linking to the elevators.
I found a discussion about unequal aileron movement using the system that GP includes with their kit. An easy remedy is to use these [link=http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig]Aileron Interconnect Horns[/link] by Sig.
As for the engine, I used a regular engine mount (think it was a Great Planes one) for my ASP120 four stroke, till I replaced it with an OS160 twin cylinder four stroke. You could use one of those rubber mounted aluminium mounts if you think your YS will vibrate too much but I wouldn't bother - they're very expensive and you're probably better off spending the money on some other pat of the plane (I can really recommend on-board glow drivers).
You'll find the kit has a cowl & wheel pants made from ABS plastic - these are rubbish and for some reason (probably cost) GP thought it'd be a good idea to have the builder glue two halves together, fill the gap with (heavy) automotive filler, spend hours sanding etc. You can get good quality fibreglass replacements from [link=http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm]Fibreglass Specialities[/link]. I bought their cowl and am very happy with it, but didn't know about the 'glass wheel pants till after putting in all the work on the GP ones, so I stuck with them.
When you're gluing in the firewall, use the strongest strapping you can find and wrap it as tightly as you can around the planks that form the forward fuselage. I failed to do this properly and had to go to great lengths to build up the inner part of the fuse and sand away the outer to get the correct taper on the nose so that the cowl would fit over.
Finally, a personal request - please don't use the standard colouring scheme on the box. There's a huge thread on this plane called the "super skybolt clubhouse" or something similar and there's hundreds of pics of colour schemes in there (including mine). Since it's a real plane you can also google images of real colour schemes for inspiration too. Just make sure the underside of the bottom wing's a contrasting colour so you can tell top from bottom while in flight - I made mine all black and after a couple of scares added a pair of large, white "ace of spades" symbols for my own comfort.
