ORIGINAL: tankman
Hi Alan the only info I have at the moment is this :-
Tamiya recoil wiring
WHITE WIRE = Start recoil (+) fire
BLUE WIRE = Battery negative (-)
GREEN WIRE = Battery positive (+)
Now for the fun bit. I have seen a HL recoil rewired to work the '' right '' way which is fast recoil and slow return. I'm sure YHR made the same mod to a HL unit here a while back. The only issue here is the mod I saw was wired to work with an RX18 and you have to use a microswitch on the recoil unit to control the firing cycle just like a Tamiya unit ( pm me if you want the name of the other site where I read about this mod ). So the thing is you need to see how Tamiya wire up there recoil copy it and in theory it should work fine. It's a bit of work I know but if it works yon can then use Tamiya DMD's and MFU's between your tanks. Pictures show how I have modified my Tamiya recoil wiring to be plug and play by cutting and splicing the origional wiring with a Futaba servo extension lead so I can plug any recoil unit ( provided I wire it up right ) into my Tamiya electronics. I have done this with a HL Stug and it's a bit of a tight fit but it all works bar the recoil which I have to modify to work the ''right '' way and wire up the same as my Tamiya Tiger 1. I have pluged the Tiger 1 turret into the Stug's electronics and ripped off a few shots and everything worked OK.
This is very useful info. Without a doubt this will work Using the above you would wire the green wire through a contact swtich to one motor pole. The Blue wire to the other motor pole. The white wire would go to the normally closed or middle junction on your contact switch.
The way this works is that the blue and green wire supply current to the recoil motor. SO the motor is happily running along until the bbl reaches it's full extended postion and the contact switch is open. This cuts of the positive supply from the green wire and the motor stops. All the white wire does is supply a momentary pulse of positive power to start the motor. This action of starting the motor moves the gear inside the recoil mechanism and the spring pulls the bbl back. As soon as this happens the contact switch is closed again and the green wire is again allowed to feed power to the motor, and away it goes again unitl the contact swtich is opened again.
They only thing that can cause you grief is how much load the motor will draw from the Tamiya system. Working agaist the spring may cause it to almost stall, and if that happens it my draw more amps then the Tamiya circuit can handle, and poof. From what I learned with my Sherman I would do this without the spring on the recoil mechanism first. This will minimize the load, and you can test to make sure the motor is turning in the right direction. If it isn't you just have to reverse the motor poles. Try using the weakest spring posible to get the bbl to retract, this will minimize the load on the Tamiya electronics.