Uh, let's try the link thing again:

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...g=content;col1

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92...tm.htm#9278744

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1004344

Starting & Running Big Super Tigre and Moki Engines
By Ed Moorman
If this is your first big glow engine, and by that I mean a Super Tigre 2300, 2500, 3000 or 3250, or a Moki 1.35, 1.8 or 2.1 you might find it intimidating to operate. You also may have heard they are hard to run and require a lot of special care and feeding. Nothing could be further from the truth. The big engines are easy to operate after you know how. They run well and seem to last forever. You will have to do a few things differently than you did with a .40 or a .60. But they aren't hard. Think about moving from a little Cox .049 to an OS .46. There are some differences, right? Same for moving from an OS .46 to a Moki 1.8.
FUEL LINES: The little Cox uses small fuel tubing and the OS .46 uses medium tubing, so it is reasonable to expect the large engines will require the large stuff. Large fuel line, large brass tubing and a large hole in the fuel pick up clunk. Using medium fuel tubing on a big engine is like sucking a thick shake through a small straw. The engine will lean out in maneuvers and have an inconsistent and sensitive needle valve settings when using medium fuel line. Here are my recommendations:
Use a Sullivan or DuBro fuel tank, or some kind with replaceable brass feed lines
Drill out clunk or replace it with chain saw or brush cutter type filter clunk. A lawn mower shop or hardware store will have these. Take your tank so you get one small enough to go through the opening in the tank.
Drill out the holes for the fuel feed line in the two plastic caps and replace the brass tubing and the fuel line inside the tank with large size tubing, 5/32 instead of 1/8. Zip-tie the tubing on.
Use large fuel tubing from tank to engine.
If you use a DuBru filler valve, use the large one
Super Tigre engines have a small fuel nipple on the carb. Use a short length, about 1 inch, of medium tubing to attach to carb and splice it to the large fuel line. If you don't plan to remove the tubing from the carb to refuel, you can zip-tie the large tubing to the carb nipple.
FUEL:
Break your big engine in on regular 10% model fuel for 2 gallons, running slightly rich. After 2 gallons, you can switch to a low oil, big engine fuel such as Morgan Fuels' Omega Super-T or FHS Red Max ST3000 fuel, 10% nitro. Both are formulated for big glow engines like the Tigre and Moki.
Use no more than 10% nitro. These are high compression European engines, originally design for FAI, no nitro fuel. Anything greater then 10% nitro is a waste of money. You won't get you any more power, and it will cause the engine to run hot and detonate. In hot weather if your engine "crackles" you probably have detonation-not good. You need to run a lower nitro fuel or add a couple of head shims. The engine distributor will have them.
High oil, regular fuel does not idle as well as the low oil fuel. The Moki runs better on regular fuel than the Tigres.
If you were wondering why you need less oil in the big engines, the fuel/oil mixture a volume which is a cubic function. The parts to be lubricated by the oil are areas which are square function. You know cubic inches and square inches. As displacement goes up, the volume increases proportionally faster than does the area, so the need for oil percentage becomes less. The fuels are around 14%-16% oil, about like 4-stroke fuel for oil content.
CARBS: The original carb on the Super Tigre engines worked very well. It was the same one as used on the .60, so it had a fairly small diameter throat. Many people found the OS 7D carb from the OS .90/1.08 would fit and it had two advantages. First, it had a larger diameter throat and would give more power. Next, the 7D could also be fitted with an in-flight mixture control. This feature is popular on scale planes with tightly cowled engines. Later, the carb from the ASP .90/1.08 became popular even though it didn't have in-flight mix since it was cheaper than the OS carb. I currently have ASP carbs on all of my 3000's.
Later on, Super Tigre designed a new, larger diameter carb. This one didn't work very well at all, and many people had trouble running the engine. After the Moki started becoming popular, Super Tigre designed a new, much larger carb. It was used on the last 3000's and the new 3250. I haven't run one on a 3000, but the one on my 3250 is excellent and there is no reason to buy a replacement carb.
The carb on the Moki is excellent. I don't recall ever changing the low end adjustment. The top gets tweaked a quarter turn or so on very humid days, especially early mornings on foggy days with low clouds.
MUFFLERS: My choice for either Super Tigre or Moki engines is the Bisson muffler from Canada. Gerard, who imports the Moki engines, also is the importer for Bisson. Their Pitts style muffler is compact and takes very little power from the engine. The Slimline also works well. J-Tec makes a muffler which can be hidden in a scale plane fairly easily. Bisson also makes a very compact Pitts muffler for the OS .40 & .46 engines for a clean installation on those small Extras and other planes with side mounted engines.
PROPS: These engines, although all are about the same size, have different power bands and run differently. The ST 3000 & 3250 are high torque engines, the Moki and ST 2500 like to rev. If you still have the instructions which came with the ST engines, check out the rpms for best horsepower. The old 2000 got its max hp at 13,000 rpm, the 2500, at 10,000 rpm. Both these are revving engines. The 3000, on the other hand, is rated for best horsepower at a low 7900 rpm. This should tell you the 3000, and likewise the 3250, are high torque engines that ought to be loaded down. They should normally be propped for about 7000-7200 on the ground so they will unload in the air to their best operating rpm. Here are my suggestions for a normal application. For a big radial cowl, you will probably need a longer prop.
-ST 2500: 16-10 or Zinger 18 6-10
-ST 3000: 18-10 or Zinger 18 6-10. On my planes, an 18-8 turns up but the plane doesn't seem to go anywhere. If you are flying a sport plane and want to pep up your 3000, try a Mac's tuned pipe and long header. This combination will really turn a Zinger 18 6-10.
-ST 3250: 18-10, 20-10, 18 6-10. The 2 cubic inch 3250 will turn the 20-10 all day long. Loads of torque.
-Moki 1.8: 18 6-10, 18-10, also 16-10, 16-12. Likes to turn, but will also turn a big prop. With a tuned pipe and a 16 inch prop, the Moki will really turn. Many people like the 16-12 prop and Bisson muffler combination on the big Moki.
18-8 props: Although many people like this size prop, I have not had good results with it. High rpm, no speed.
STARTING: Never, never, never flip the prop through compression on these big engines like you do a small engine. These are high compression European engines made for no-nitro fuel. If the engine is even slightly wet, it will try to tear your hand off. Here is a procedure for 1-flip starting:
Open carb & choke 3-4 times.
Flip prop over 8-10 times to get fuel up into cylinder. You will hear a squishy sound when it is wet enough. If you don't get the pop-squish when you flip it over, choke it again.
Close carb, set idle trim up and hook up battery.
Put prop up against compression, then slap it BACKWARDS.
The engine turns backwards until it hits compression, then backfires, which kicks it forward. Normally, this starts the engine. If you use a spinner, you can grab the spinner and twirl it backwards to start.
RUNNING: There is a tendency for many people to run these big engines too lean. Fliers used to the sound like a screaming .46 try to adjust their big Tigre or Moki to sound the same. None of these engines will turn an 18 inch or larger prop that fast. Tune for max rpm, then back off a few hundred. If you are trailing a little smoke at the first of the flight, the engine is probably set correctly. It will lean out slightly as fuel burns down. If you have set the engine for full lean at the first of the flight, it will go too lean as fuel burns down and more than likely over heat by the end of the flight.