The first of these I did was a ZDZ 20x10 woodie that was stock wood for the ZDZ40 cc. I shaved and shaved the wood thickness down to about half the original. Shaved off something like 55 grams off a prop that weighed around 120 grams stock. I became quite skeptical because the blades became very flimsy at 50% the original thickness. Once I added the carbon tube sock, my skepticism abated. Extremely stiff and mighty strong outcome at at slightly over half the thickness on the blades. This hybrid prop weighs in at 80 grams

I think the SAP180 will turn this prop but I haven't tried it. When I do, I will report the results here.

Of course one may carve his own wood as I have. I also have a 21x12 I carved from a known blank like a 22x12.....but that's a lot of work, checking and re-checking to make sure the angle per blade station is constant and area distribution is constant. It becomes even more work intensive if you want to increase the angle during the carving process at any station. I bought the aero perfect inclinometer partially for this purpose. One can never be too fussy about the angles' accuracy. A prop works best when it is statically and dynamically balanced.

Doing a prop from a known Xoar electric makes life far easier since the heavy lifting is mostly done. Not that these are perfect (mine were perfect to within a couple mils only at some stations but not in all stations; a couple stations were off by 15 mils)....it is simply easier to sand off 20 mils rather than shave 1/8 inch or more.

BTW the carbon tube sock adds around 15 mils to the thickness when you vacuum bag the assembly. It would be much thicker if not bagged. I would not do one this way without vacuum bagging

Bob, when i start breaking it down there is quite a bit going on in this endeavor. Perhaps even more than building your own soft mount. But it's a good skill to learn just like building your own mounts

matt