Titebond gained its good reputation because it was known as the fuel-proof glue, as opposed to Elmer's (and other brands) of white glue. That was in the Sixties. I imagine it is possible, or even likely, that color probably doesn't mean much of anything these days, yet I still reach for the Titebond when building.


Ed Cregger


PS Like many of you, I too have become sensitized to normal CA glues and accelerators. I think I was born sensitized to Freon accelerator, but we lived about two miles from the Freon factory throughout my teenage years. Any Freon detector you had would sound an alert even many miles from the factory.

Anyway, like many of you, I go to extraordinary measures in order to ensure that I use lots of ventilation when I use CA products. And, I limit my exposure to CA by using it only where it is absolutely needed.

Once you get into using aliphatic resin glue, you will change your mental schedule of how you perform tasks and the next thing you know, your building time is nearly equal to what it was when using CA glue. Yep, it sounds impossible, but there are many tricks to using aliphatic resign glue (Titebond). Such as laying down a small pool of glue on wax paper or disposable margarine container lids and then having a small paper drinking cup of water nearby, along with a 1/4" or small paint brush. Prepainting thinned aliphatic resin on to spars and rib notches doesn't take very long. It is good to let the painted on glue/water solution dry until it has a skin on it. Then another dab of glue, perhaps straight this time, with the brush will provide you with a very strong junction with a minimum of extra glue being used. The more you do this type of building, the faster you will get at doing it and you will be surprised just how fast those special joints dry.

The beauty of aliphatic resin glue is that it all cleans up with water. I love it!


Ed Cregger