ORIGINAL: Antique
Surprise, surprise...
Been telling people for about 20 years now the key doesn't do anything but tell the engine assembler where to put the hub on the crank...
Keys are soft, if the the hub is loose the key will shear...
Haven't use a key for about 20 years...If the hub taper matches the crank taper and the hub is TIGHT it will never move...Loctite helps, but TIGHTNESS is the secret...
some Chinese engines used cast aluminum hubs with a big wide keyway..The hub cracked because the combination of the wide keyway and tightening was too much for a casting...6061 aluminum works just fine with NO keyway, you just gotta know how to time and engine at assembly...
By the way, thanks for the heads up...When #411 gets here the hub will be the first thing checked..
Makes sense,
I posted in the other thread that I didn't know exactly how this hub is attached. I assumed it had a key but I can't see one for sure. Either way, the spark confirms it's relative position.
I'm really itching to know if it's just pressed/glued or even an interferance fit. if that's the case, a little heat and a little reclock we could be up and running!
How will you check #411? 366 is ROCK solid just completely rotated.