Thanks Tom.

Guys ,I got a few pm`s about this.
I want to clarify that I`m not saying you have to fly nose heavy, I just use the term to explain the difference it`s a relative term,
you can only move the C/G forward if you use positive in the wing.
the more positive you use the more you have to move the C/G forward. there is however a saturation point.

Here is a good Standard to remember
If you have an Airplane with thin wings Say like the Zeque you will need more positive inc because the airfoil is not very powerful, Small,ish wing erea thin wing Start with .5 Pos But you will probably need to move more.'

We are trying to lift 1G
On an airplane like the Integral a little more area, a little thicker airfoil .5 is probably good, then, put the cg to 27% or till the left rudder knife edge pass is straight.
Remember the bigger the wing/thicker the airfoil the less inc you can run.

If you have an airplane with a 1000 sq. wing and a 12% thickness you can get away with .3 pos But there will still be a small belly tuck on left rudder knife right rudder will be fine however, your airplane will fly pretty good every where But you will get slid around in the wind also your 1.5 snaps will be ugly and hard to tame.
All Airplanes snap better with a forward C/G and pos inc. I`m talking about just throw the sticks in the corner Not a fake job only the pro`s can do.

Here is another rule of thumb,,if you have to use full rudder throw to do any snaps, your cg is too far back and is probably why your 1.5 snap Pos or Neg. is so darn Ugly
You should never need more than 40% of total rudder throw to do a one rotation snap ,and you should use 70-80% of rudder throw on a 1.5 snap + or -
Snaps and spin landings are controlled with rudder ,,rotation is controlled with ailerons if you have it set up reversed ,,you will never get a consistant landing on spins and snaps ,,,
well, unless you use rudder,and elevator only for spins ,,I talked about this earlier.

You should have at least 20deg. of throw in your ailerons for snaps ,,,,,get the rotation from the wings ,and the snaps are stalled ,,and start looking good ,when you get rotation from Rudder ,thats where inconsistency sets in on rotation (becomes very speed sensitive) and exits.
This is the most missed set up in the Masters class, and the point where most points are lost. Study this and don`t be affraid to make some changes. when you start using high Aileron rates and low rudder throw ,, it will amaze you how duplicatable the exit become.

Brian ,
on the Bipe I will hold that secret close to my vest,it will set my bipe designs apart in the hobby for a long time.
I can tell you this Last year, Chip told me I will regret ever messing with a Bipe ,,He could not be farther from the truth.
I have learned more in the last year designing and trimming the Shark, and it was the most revealing info I have learned in the last 25 years of designing Pattern planes.
Doing my research before I started, and trimming after ,I found No Body knew what they were talking about. not even me. LOL and don`t even read the full scale stuff!
Really, the rules for a Bipe does not change from the mono`s the indicators are the same. learning what to do with the info the airplane feeds back is hte key to success.

But after 10 different wing configurations I can tell you no one would have ever guess the correct setting.
some settings work ok just like the mono`s, but there is a magic setting ,just like the Mono`s
My Bipe has no throttle to rudder mix no roll coupling ,,I can do the complete pattern on knife edge using low rate rudder Bipes are great!
I had a good time learning.

a little long again ,,sorry
Bryan