RE: TF AT-6 Kit Bash
I used a 14 oz Hayes fuel tank, it approximates what came with the kit in size and doesn’t use a stopper nor require bending aluminum tubes. I capped off the opening in the firewall with a slice of wooden dowel and drilled fuel tubing size holes in it. Two pieces of 3/32 inch ply makeup the fuel tank mounting rails. I glued two strips of Du-Bro R/C Foam Rubber to cushion the tank. The tank is held in place with Velcro wire ties. The tank is mounted off center to allow clearance for the throttle cable and permit a clean shot to the servo. I prefer cable to wire for throttle set ups.
The pilot is hideous. I didn’t expect such a piece of crap, but considering how long I’ve been looking for one, I’m going to have to make do. I could easily see finger-prints in the plastic in various places on the pilots body in line workers vain attempt to rectify the outcome of a screwed up molding process. The pilot’s pose is wrong, both hands will be in the pilots lap if I don’t do something about it. I elected to saw off the pilots left arm and rig a balsa appendage. Put a heat gun to the hand so he will hold a stick and wrapped his fingers around it. Salvaging the plastic shoulder, I glued it to the balsa. Because his body is opened up, I used scrap foam from my fuel tank installation and sat in his body so it puffed out a little and looked about right. Using CA and strips of paper towel, I covered the foam and put him back together. To hold him in the seat, I carved out the backside of his butt and glued in a balsa block. I sealed his pants with Gorilla Glue so it expands and reshapes his butt. To mount him I will drive a screw up through the seat and into his waszzoo. I will smooth the imperfections in this guy with a Dremel tool before painting him. Note to self, Century Jet makes crappy full body pilots.
I prep the seats for paint by rubbing some watered down lightweight spackle to seal the grain. When dry it's sanded and painted.