<u>Step 4</u>:
Apply a little heavier coat of PVA. Let it dry thoroughly (about a half hour in warmer weather). Together, the wax and the PVA form a parting layer between the mold and the fiberglass lay-up of the newly fabricated parts, so they can be removed, and not permanently adhere to the mold.


<u>Step 5</u>:
Apply a heavy "flow coat" of PVA. You want it wet enough that it flows together and forms a continuous and even film. Butbe careful . . . there is a fine line between this, and causing runs. Any runs will show in your final product and will need to be filled and sanded. However, I find that the PVA makes any defects so smooth and gradualthat most spot fillers have nothing to "grab" onto, and end up coming offwhen trying to sand the imperfection out. So,if runs do happen, instead, I find it better to just start over, beings I am still at arelatively early point in the process.