Were I just laying up one fuse, I'd use the "Slow" (West System #206) hardener. But during hot weather, or in this case with 3 fuses, I need extra work time (or "pot life"), so I'm using the "Extra Slow" (#209) hardener.

I also found the cups for cheap at Smart and Final. I find that using wide, shallow containers, rather than tall,narrow ones,keeps the epoxy from "firing off" too quickly, and will also give me those crucial extra few minutes of working time.

The blue Scotts Workshop Towels are pictured. I tend to cut each sheet in quarters and use these quarter-sheets for wiping, waxing, and buffing my molds.

I use a combination of flux brushes and the 1" brushes (pictured above) to apply resin. I generally use the flux brushes for fabrication of smaller parts like cowls and hatches, and getting into tighter spaces of the mold (wing fillets, corners, etc.). The 1" brushes are great for applying larger amounts of epoxy and quickly wetting-out the cloth when applying layers of cloth to the entire mold surface.

I believe that pinholes are most commonly caused by not sufficiently filling the weave of the cloth with epoxy. I eliminate alot of this with the initial thinned coat that I detailed previously. But, I almost forgot to mention that when you mix the initial, thinnedlayer of epoxy, you need to VERY GENTLY stir parts A and B together. If you stir to quickly, you will mix in aslough of air bubbles that will take considerable time to brush out and hopefully be able to pop so you don't end up with these bubbles causing pinholes that were supposed to be eliminated by this step. Pictured below is a cup that I stirred quickly. Note all the air bubbles that are visible if you look carefully. (Don't worry, this batch is the 2nd batch and is about to get microballoons mixed into it for the next step, anyway. You don't have to be so careful mixing after the initial layer.)