You're still going to get differential throws with a reversing Y.

Here's why:

No servo will travel the same amount in both directions. Period. Let me give you an example. Let's say a servo will travel 65 degrees clockwise. It will only travel about 58 degrees counter-clockwise. Thats a fact- and it's just the nature of the beast here. No getting around it. This is true of ALL servos. Even the expensive JR and Futaba digital servos. They just don't travel the same exact amount in both directions. No servo does.

So; if you have two servos and they both travel 65 degrees clockwise and 58 degrees counter-clockwise-- then the reversed servo is only going to travel 58 degrees while the non-reversed servo is going to travel 65 degrees when you pull back on the stick.

What will happen is this:
When you pull back on the stick-- your left half will go up 1" and your right half will only go up 3/4". Now: when you push down elevator-- your left half will go down 3/4" and your right half will go down 1". They will be TOTALLY OPPOSITE. One goes up a bunch and down a little and the other servo/elevator will go up a little and down a bunch. I've tried this-- believe me. I cussed a reversing Y harness for a month once. They just don't work for this application.

Most reversing Y harness' will have a "centering" pot. It allows you to re-center the reversed servo. Big deal. It doesn't make them both TRAVEL the same amount in BOTH directions. It only allows you to recenter the reversed servo. It doesn't allow to to adjust the travel of each servo. You still got differential throw.

What you need is a JR Matchbox. They cost about $65. Or you can go here>>>>>http://www.smart-fly.com/ and look at the Equalizer. It's basically the same thing as a JR Matchbox-- but a few $$$ cheaper.

Your only other option is to tear one servo apart and reverse it internally. I did this with a Hitec 625MG on my H9 Cap 232 and it worked perfectly.

To reverse a servo internally-- you gotta be REALLY CAREFULL. You can't just reverse the wires on the motor. You MUST also reverse the TWO OUTSIDE wires on the POT.

If you only reverse the wires on the motor -- it will go up in smoke the instant you put power to it. The motor will be trying to go clockwise and the pot is feeding power too it trying to make it go counterclockwise. It fights itself to death and soon melts internally.

On a Hitec servo-- there is one brown wire and one orange wire on the motor. Reverse these two. There are three wires on the pot. I can't remember the colors-- it's not important anyway. Just reverse the TWO OUTSIDE wires. Leave the center wire on the pot alone.

After an internal reversing operation/abortion-- your servos will work together and you will be happy as a pig in .....well, you know. All you will need is a standard Y harness. No reversing nessecary at that point. Now that you have both servos traveling together-- you can adjust your elevator throws with your computer radio. You're still going to have 65 degrees travel clockwise-- and 58 degrees counterclockwise-- but they will be working together-- not opposite of each other. You can use your travel adjustments (end point adjustment) on your radio to get equal movement both--up and down--on the elevators.

I know that some will say that it's possible to manually adjust your linkages and your servo travel to make a reversing Y harness work fine. Not true. No matter how much you twist the linkages and alter the servo travel-- you'll always have differential throws. Everytime you pull back on your elevator stick; you plane will corkscrew because of the differential throws.

Either reverse it internally or get an Equalizer or a Matchbox. That's the only way to do it right.

I hope this helps you out.