Alright!!!!!!! Let's get this back on track!!!
Had the opportunity to paint a couple parts today since I was spraying some bike parts the same color.
So I painted the stabs, and the bypass cover today.

To start with, lets go back to post one for a minute, Here are some pictures of the products I used during the wet sanding.

Picture 1. PPG Guide coat, this is the thin black that I spray on before sanding to show me any low spots.

Picture 2. 3M 800 grit wet or dry paper, don't really know why I took a picture of this, but people seem to like pictures haha!

Picture 3. Here is the color I am using for the overall bottom of the jet. It is a Pearl white tri-coat. The base is basically just a bright white, and the mid coat is a clear carrier with a gold pearl in it.

Picture 4. The stabs which were sanded as per the first post here, were simply mounted on a paint stand so that they could be sprayed. I masked off the 1/4" rod that connects the 2 stab halves before spraying.

Picture 5. Almost forgot, here is the reducer I am using with the paint. The paint and reducer mixes 1:1. I know there are guys here that like to paint their jets with over reduced paint, but it is pointless, you will only use more coats for even coverage and you end up with poor adhesion and a much better chance of runs.

Picture 6. Here is the gun I am using for pretty well all of the painting, it is a Sata-jet RP 3000 digital. This is THE Ferrari of paint guns, spray with one of these and you'll wonder why you ever wasted your time with Horror freight paint guns.

Ok, so during the spraying process I can't take pictures of myself, so here is a run down of the steps involved:

Step 1. Mix your paint 1:1 with reducer. Pour the paint into your gun, I recommend the use of a paint strainer to keep any crap out of there, however, I ran out of strainers so I couldn't take a picture of one for you.

Step 2. Make sure the part you are spraying is CLEAN. Wipe it down with a lint free cloth and a degreasing agent such as PPG's DX320.

Step 3. Wipe the part down once more lightly with a tack cloth to remove any dust

Step 4. With my paint gun set to 21psi at the gun, and a wide pattern, I begin to spray the stab halves starting at the bottom and working my way up, I prefer to go this way when spraying white as it's almost impossible to see the wet pass through the overspray, starting from the bottom I can see the dry edge getting covered much easier. Spray at a distance of about 8" from your part. The Sata will give you a spray pattern about 8" wide at that distance. When spraying, overlap your passes by 1/2 the width of your spray pattern. With a good paint like the PPG Concept series, even a white will cover in 2 coats.

Step 5. Wait 15 minutes in between coats. I applied the mid coat (pearl) in the same method used for the base coat but only required one coat for the pearl effect I wanted.

Picture 7. Ok, so now I'm a bit of a jerk because I forgot to take a picture of the stab bottoms in the white. However, here is a picture of the bottom of the stab masked out. I used 1/8" 3M blue fine line tape for the initial tape line and used 3M masking paper and tape to fill in the area I don't want paint to get on. I waited 1 hour between spraying the last pearl coat on the white and masking.

Picture 8. Here is the main color I used on the top of the stabs. Another Tri-coat paint. This one has a prismatic pearl in it though. This particular color costs almost $2000 a gallon!!!!!

Step 6. After wiping down the stab again (finger oils from masking will cause fish eyes) I spray first my base coat in the same method described above, and then my mid coat. I also sprayed my bypass cover with this color as well.

Step 7. After removing the masking (which I do while the paint is still wet, you will get a crisper line this way) I mixed my clear. I used PPG 2001 clear with DU5 Hardener.

Picture 9. Clear

Picture 10. Hardener

Step 8. Mix the clear together in a 3:1:1 ratio. I do NOT reduce my clear anymore than recommended by manufacture. Doing this will reduce gloss, reduce adhesion, make it far easier to get runs, and will likely "solvent pop" (where it looks like you have millions of micro sized holes in the clear leaving a hazy look) If you spray your clear properly, after wet sanding and polishing you will have gained very little weight.

Picture 11. Here I tried to take a picture of me spraying the clear, unfortunately, it only got me, sorry guys, I know the paint would have been more interesting but when holding a camera phone and trying to not get runs, you gotta take what you can get

Step 9. Spray the clear the same way as the base coat, but here it is very important to watch your clear. You want it to be a wet coat but not so heavy that it will run. So, you want to spray it so that it does not have a "dry" look to it, however, do NOT try to get it to look like glass just by spraying it or it will run. This type of paint will go on looking fairly orange peeled, but it will flow out into a nice smooth finish. I wait 20 minutes and then spray a 2nd coat. If you have sprayed your clear wet without it being to heavy, this will give you enough clear to sand out tape lines, any orange peel you get, and polish it back without going through the clear.