RCU Forums - View Single Post - Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in

06-16-2010 | 05:26 AM

#284

DarZeelon

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From: Rosh-HaAyin, ISRAEL

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded

BW,

You seem to be grossly over-rating the amount of engineering involved in the design of model engines...
...You are going even further than that, with the amount of engineering that you think is in break-in procedures outlined in most model engine manuals...

The leading criterion when writing the break-in instruction, should be 'ease of understanding and following, by a layman'.
Oh, I nearly forgot; it must also get the job done to a reasonable degree...

No model engine 'break-in' procedure, is designed to be performed by an engineer, with accurate measuring instruments...

...It is designed for a layman to perform.

The editors of engine manuals are by and large, NOT engineers. They may ask the engineers, if the method they included in the manual would critically damage the engine... NOT if it will achieve optimum results...
They, or the PR dept. have an overwhelming propensity to leave things as they were - even if some engines underwent a drastic change in design, or several different types of engines, are covered by just one manual...

How else would you explain the procedure for the Magnum .91 ABC engine; outlined in [link={akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/29710/Hf97502.pdf]its manual[/link]; so closely resembling that of a ringed-piston, steel-sleeve engine?
And how else can you explain [link=http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/50sx-40-46-61-91fx-manual.pdf]the OS .40-.91 manual[/link], containing just one procedure; to cover both ringed and ABN/ABL engines?

Do you truly think the OS engineers devised a 'special design' for their ABN/ABL engines; that would get 'optimal break-in results', when it is done in the method for ringed engines?
This, just so they could have a single, 'uniform' method in the manual?

Do you suppose the Sanye engineers, have designed their .91 ABC engine, so it will get the optimal results, using the ringed engine break-in technique?

I think I would not be over-rating your judgment, by saying you are way too smart to think so...

The technique outlined in the beginning of this thread, would get very good results with ALL tapered-bore engines; regardless of the exact 'high-silicon aluminium', aluminium and brass alloys used for the piston and the sleeve, by their various manufacturers; or the exact tapers and tolerances that they use...

...Which is much more than I can say for the flawed, 'legacy' methods, as detailed in the above two manuals and in many others not listed here...

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