RE: evolution 46
Chris,
None of the people present here can tell you the proper setting for your high-speed needle...
Any setting given to you is ONLY a place to start; as Jim elaborately wrote.
"Anything running badly on the ground, will not become better in flight!"
Because this always holds true, the fact that you mentioned not having touched the low-speed needle, its incorrect setting is probably at the base of your problem.
Even an engine designed for operation by beginners, requires some effort to be made to get it adjusted.
The low-speed needle controls much more than just the idle mixture... It is actually the engine's primary fuel control; which determines the 'fuel curve' at all settings, from idle to ~80% open throttle...
The high-speed needle must, of-course, be open enough; so as not to deprive the engine of its fuel needs at all part-throttle settings...
It is only at ~75% throttle or more, where engine RPM changes very little; that the setting of the high-speed needle becomes the only control and has a direct effect on engine operation.
...But you can 'twirl' that needle as much as you want at part throttle and as long as it is open enough to support the low-speed needle's position; it will have no effect at all...
The low-speed needle must be set to provide optimal response and transition, at all part throttle settings...
In fact, the engine may sound a bit rich... but when it sounds perfect in steady-state, it may conk-out, or 'stumble', when you try to open the throttle further...
It is your responsibility to make it a bit richer, so response to throttle input will be perfect (no stumble; no burbling/spitting, on throttle-up).
And let me add this; in any reciprocating engine (glow/spark/Diesel...), there is no 'eternal flame'...
It does not and cannot 'flame-out'...
This is just 'turbine wannabe' jive, used by 'boys who want to be be men - but are still mere boys to be'...
Your glow engine can shut-down, stop, conk-out... not flame-out!