Let's stick to the subject, shall we? Internal combustion engines need water cooling.....electric motors don't unless they're forced to carry too much load. And that's just what I'm saying. If you feel the need for water cooling, then you're working the motor too hard. Heat is generated by the amount of current flowing through a motor. The higher the current, the higher the heat. So water cooling can help cure the symptom but not the problem. There's also the fact that a lot of current going through the motor is that much less left in the
battery which means that much less time in the water. See what I mean? Cure the problem not the symptom.
"What Skip is advocating is an old school method that hay if it works it should not be improved.What he fails to see is the facts ,not created by me but simple laws of fysicks,no mater how small or large the motor is it is going to produce heat and in an inclosed space it will get worse.My system simply removes or
transfers that heat to surrounding water."
Do your homework, match the motor/prop/reduction and no water cooling is necessary. Period.
Skip Asay
Skip you still don't see my point and yet you have finaly agreed to the fact that a motor will generate heat that we agree upon right.
However you still feel that I over tax my motors by not matching the props exetra,you could not be more mistaken.They are perfectly matched or how else could I get 2.5 to 3 hours of continuese use out of a single charge as is the case in my larger subs DO YOU ,and a whoppinig 90 minutes out of the SB-2.0 when without the mods it would barely do 30 minutes,by the way its the same exact motor just geared down and water cooled.The guys at TT did not bother to do that because it cost more and would hurt the bottom line since there main goal was to produce a better pool toy,not seeing the true potential of this great sub.
Your sympton is simlply being old school and not wanting to change old edeas,and then put new ideas down we have all seen that symtom before,well there is another way to skin a cat and it works just fine period.
I have done more homewark than than anyone could imagine on RC sub propultion and I like them to run a long long time with nice cool motors,cooler than just throwing them in there and hopping they will stay cool ,they won't even if they had no prop,now do you see my point,I hope the rest of you do,it helps to keep a cool motor even cooler not because it is a necesity or even required but is simply good insurance to keep them happy cool.
I will post a detailed how to install water cooling on your sub later.
The idea of having another batery to back up the fail safe is a good one but that would intail complex separation of the main circuit board.The SB-1 has a built in voltage sensor that automaticly surfaces the sub when power is low at a factory set level and it works every time.
Remember to check that stern shaft seal for leaks it will and flood the motor then seize it up and cause the fuse to blow.
Dave SB-2.0