Just got back home from a doctors appointment so I haven't work on MS2 today so far. I did work some five hours yesterday and have been doing some progress. Took me 45 minutes to epoxy the stab in place. In that regard I noted there were no specific instructions on this procedure. Unfortunately there is a somewhat cryptic diagram on page 12 of my manual and that is just around the end before CG Location. For those builders that are not that experienced it will not make them any good to try to "adjust" the aircraft symmetry once the tail surfaces have been already glued. On this diagram you may use any of the reference points to position the stab, I prefer method labeled C=C' . By the way; In the manual it shows one to measure the stab from the very center of the rear of the spinner to both front tips of the stab and make both measurements equal before marking the position prior to the removal of off the covering and final gluing. I believe that since the cowl have a couple of degrees of right thrust built in this will skew your measurements. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I always use the same method except that I halve the width of former "B" (the one in font of the tank) and stick a T Pin as my datum, tie a string Kevlar is best (because it doesn't stretch) to the pin and wrap a piece of masking tape around the string close to either front stab corner. Make sure that the distance from the rudder hinge line to the stab tips is equal first and then use the string to balance both tips to equal distance. You may found out the need to slide the tape back and forth while rotating the stab until the tape matches both stab tips (see photo). I also noted the manual does not mention to make sure and verify the horizontal alignment of the stab. I simply do that by placing a straightedge on the canopy saddle and standing some six feet away visually make sure the straightedge is parallel to the stab, and periodically check while the glue is curing. You may also install the wings and and use them do the same.

Besides that all else in this build have been really good surprises. One bonus I was not aware of is the built in canister tunnel. Really neat and there is the option of installing the tunnel cover. Now that is quite intelligent engineering and forethought. If I would have known this I would have ordered the excellent tuned canister silencer offered by Horizon for the 26GX . Not only you increase a couple hundredth RPM's, the output sound is really sweet and it meets sound regulations. That translates to a few more points to all of you IMAC competitors. I might order one of them even if it's means that it will delay the build because I have to wait for the part.

Another fine point is the excellent cowl mounting systems beautifully matched paint colors and perfectly aligning trim lines. I decided to install the engine and cowl before adding the tail feathers because it is so much easier while the fuse is siting vertical on the floor to measure and align everything. Well let my go back to trimming the cowl. I have the engine mounted and need to cut the breathing holes for the engine. Regarding the engine install; I substituted the engine mount for a GP 120-150 adjustable mount (my predilection) although the provide mount will work just fine. I am also using all SAE hardware on the engine mounting, and that is just another preference. I drill and tap my mounts and Metric taps are very hard and expensive to obtain. Until next time.....................happy building!