Chip,

I received my Double Vision last Thursday and have been going through the Instructions on CD-ROM. I have some questions.

1. The Motor Mounting Template that is posted on your website is different then the one on my CD-ROM. It doesn’t look like I will be able to use the 2.5inch stand offs that came with my DA 50R and Slimline Pitts Muffler? Do you happen to know what the length I will need to cut them at?

2. One of the procedures in the Manual says you need to relocate the rear stabilizer anti rotation pin by using a round file by 1/8 inch. The picture above this caption seems to show the location to be correct already? Do I need to perform this procedure? What is the correct measurement of this hole from the bottom of the fuselage?


Thanks,

The short standoffs are the omes that are used on the DV, and I believe you can still use the slim line muffler. Yes the antirotation pin needs to be brought down about 1/8th of an inch on ALL of the planes. It is a simplle fix that will just make it so your elev. trim will trim neutrel. It is not that critical as far as getting it to the thousandths, just make sure to keep it equal from the bottom of the fuse

Chip

Can you post the updated instruction manual or give more instructions on the antirotion mods for the elevator for those of us who already have one?

the stand offs need to be 1 1/4 inch total lenght

Just got off of the phone with Desert Aircraft they currently do not have any 1 1/4 inch stand offs for the DA 50R in stock. But they could have them as early as the 20th of May. He was unaware that this was the stand off being used with the Double Vision.

The 1-1/4" and 1-5/8" both will work... BUT there is one consideration...

The carb needles... With either of these options they will be hard to access...

With 1 1/4" standoffs you can use 1/2" plywood spacers to get them out where they work well...

1-5/8" standoffs need a 1/8" ply spacer to get the rear needle out enough to access.

This is how I did it with the 1-1/4" standoffs and 1/2" spacers.

This lets the back of the bottom of the cowl sit flush with the gear slot.

It's possible that DA sells 1-3/4" standoffs too and you wouldn't need any spacers...

Here's a pic of the needles... you can see how even 1/8" shorter would make it difficult to reach the rear neelde, and 1-1/4" standoffs alone would put them completely behind the firewall...

I fogot to mention that the above spacers help minimize the amount of the firewall you have to grind away for muffler clearance.

Now the anit-rotation pin...

I don't ahve a manual so here's what I did:

1) Cut away the covering from the bottom of the fuse just under the anti-ortation pin area.

2) carefully pry away the little square pin doubler with a sharp tipped flathead screwdriver

3) sand any residual wood/glue away with a file (I used a piece of 1" wide X 6" long ply with sandpaper glued to it.

4) Looking from the outside again, make a mark 1/8" below the BOTTOM of the existing hole

5) rattail file the hole down til it JUST touches the line you made, then install the pin and stabs. pushing the stab down into the new slots you made, measure the center of the leading edge to the bottom of the fuse and make sure both sides are equal... if not... file the high side a touch.

6) Make up two new alignment squares 1" square with 9/64" holes in the centers and apply 30 minute epoxy to one side of each square.

6) Apply vaseline lightly to the antirotation pin

7) Slide the pin into one side of the fuse and then slide one "new square" onto the pin inside the fuse with the flue side toward the fuse. Then slide the other square on the pin to with the glue facing it's fuse side, then slide the pin the other side of the fuse.

8) install your stabs then make sure the pin is pushed toward the bottom of the fuse.

9)Place a couple strips of tape on the leading edge of the stab and onto the fuse to hold it in position.

10) Look inside and press the squares firmly against the fuse sides, I used an open ended wrench to press it.

Double check the stab is still at the "bottom" of the slots you filed then let it set up.

I wouldn't use anything but 30 minute epoxy because if you got hung up somewhere you'd be pitchin' a fit...

Here's a pic of what you'd be lookin' at:

Also something I did (not run by Chip)...

I cutout two bays in the underside of the "engine box" to enable easier access to the area... It will assist in placing the engine bolts, accessing front part of the tank area and installing of throttle/choke linkage...

I also intend on installing my ignition and battery inside the fuse near the back of the firewall.

NOW... I did notice that the nose area relies on this solid piece of ply here to help with tortional strength, so I intend on applying some 1/2" tri-stock to the formers inside and placing a 1/32" aircraft ply cover over the openings with several screws to strengthen it back to par.

This is my OWN mod and not necessarily endorsed by Chip... use at your own risk... however, I have no qualms whatsoever in this process. The engine box should be stronger than before and easier to get into if need be all without adding much weight if any:

Great INFO Thanks for the reply.

Here is the way to change the stab front antirotation pin

Chip

You know guys I got to tell you I have been flyiny my DV for about 2 months now I have not really seen a need to do all the Mods to the stab, but I guess to each his own. Let me know how it flies then I may also consider doing this[sm=RAINFRO.gif]

rgreen24

Did you use a DA50? How did you mount your throtle and choke servos in your Double Vision? Just wondering how you got the pushrods all the way up to the firewall? Could you provide some pictures?

Thanks.

On edge
I took a 256 rod and sleve and went through the front cabane hole so i have a manual chokeand i mounted my thotel by my ruder servo on one side hole

this one is with my copilot

dont look at the stand offs they are deing cut down to the corect size ,this is how i did my choke

Hello Chip Hyde TEAM, (and any others who can help)

New Double vision owner, box arrives today. I've been flying for 3 years, typical learning curve from trainers to low wings to 3-D. I have kit built several and arf built most. My concerns are as follows:

1. I ordered the DA 50 and have seen many different threads on length of motor stand offs. Are the supplied ones from DA incorrect? If so, can they be cut down by carbon fiber blades, or do I need to order a different size from DA? Are the little circular plywood stand-outs just cut out from a 1/4 sheet? 1/2 sheet?

2. This is only my Third gas plane, both prior were flying bricks, an extra 300XS with a 41 cc US engine, and a Lanier Laser with some ancient 2.5. I KNOW BETTER now! What size gas tank should I run in the DV?

3. Is there room in the fusalage for a TME smoke system? If so, do you all feel that it's compromising weight too much (extra battery, tank, etc.)

4. What batteries should I use? NIMH? NICD? Mah ratings? (not too sure I want to spend the dough on the li-poly packs.. . . they've been nothing but temperamental in my electric outfits)

5. Are most people running nylon push rods for throttle control?

I know this is a heck of a lot of questions i know! Please help when you can, and thank you.

Indy3d..... Check out this thread, it has 7 pages of great stuff on the DV. It answered just about all my Q's.
Good luck;
greg http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Its_...1587236/tm.htm

Does anyone know how the new Double Vision is at flying anything other than 3D? ie Chip's original DV was a pattern plane. Does the new DV do any pattern flying that is reasonable or is it strictly a 3D plane??

Hey guys I got to tell you that i just used the 2 1/2 inch stand off and my cowl fits perfectly. Any reason why you guys are using the 1 1/4 and 1 5/8 stand offs. When I orginally spoke to CHip he said the cowl can be moved two inches iether direction to obtain a proper fit with Spinner. IMHO I will see how the 2 1/2 inch stand offs do then I will report. I was flying My DV before with a Moki but now I decided to go gas. I am hoping for better 3d performance with the 50

I realize some are going to do what they want regardless, however the plane is OPTIMUM with a DA-50R and the short standoffs. That is what this plane is designed for. I have gone to the long standoffs for the Vision, but that had more to do with the nose design cowl fit, and landing gear location then anything else. The cowl is adjustable, but it was intended to be that way so you can move a small lite engine further forward, not to hang a 50 way out there. True it will still work, but it is not going to be the same, and I think personally it makes it look like the nose is out of proportion to the rest of the plane.

Chip

Chip,

How about you post some pic's of your plane and it's setup. I would love to see just how you mounted your DA50. Also if you could please include your throttle and choke linkage setup and tank mounting with some pictures please. Also include some pic's of your Ignition and Battery placement.

Thanks,

If I use the shorter stand offs my Slimline Pitts style muffler hit the bottom of the fuse where the firewall and the underside of the engine box comes together. It still justs touches with the stand offs that came with the DA. What to do? Will it fly ok with the longer stand offs? What did you guys do so the muffler did not hit?

I made a pair of 1 5/8in. stand offs and it fits fine

Did anyone have fitting the struts a problem. It seems after putting three of the screws in that I have to force the back lower strut down to the wing to put the screw in. I am concerned that it puts the wing in a stress position and maybe out of flatness.